One of the fundamental exercises I teach in class is targeting. Targeting refers to teaching your dog to touch a “target.” It can be an open hand, your fingers or a target stick. It is a simple behavior that has a wide variety of applications and is very versatile. Once you teach your dog to target your hand, it is easy to move on to touching other objects. I like to use the word “touch” as my verbal cue. Teaching your dog to touch a person’s open hand can help with:
1) Overcoming hand shyness and building confidence to approach strangers
2) Teaching dogs to walk by your side by touching your palm when it is next to your body.
3) Teaching dogs to approach strange objects
4) Teaching dogs to open and shut doors and other objects
5) Teaching dogs to touch or ring a bell to go potty.
6) Teaching dogs to follow your hand to go up ladders, through hoops and other agility props.
7) To help redirect your dog’s attention from something else (barking dog, scary person, etc)
8) Using it as a form of recall (come to you). Many dogs are more responsive to “touch” then the word “come.”
Here is a video explaining how to teach your dog to target and a series of clips showing how the “touch” command can be applied to different circumstances:
lördag 2 juli 2011
On the benefits of clicker training
In my group classes I give people the option of using a clicker to train their dogs. Personally, I have found this to be a useful and effective training tool for my own dogs. Clickers can have many advantages over other methods of training:
1) The clicker sounds the same every time - every time we press the clicker, it sounds basically the same. It is a clear and consistent signal to the dog that he/she did something correctly and will be rewarded for it. Our human voices, however, can vary especially if we are happy, excited, nervous, frustrated, tired or impatient.
2) Most animals have only positive associations with clickers - because of the nature of clicker training (i.e. click followed by reward), most animals have positive associations with clickers. There are a few animals that are scared of clickers when initially introduced to them so it is always best to first muffle the sound of the sound of the clicker to make sure your dog is not is not scared of it.
3) Often helpful with rescues - I have found that clickers often work well with rescues. Most rescues have no previous association with clickers so they find the experience unique and interesting. For dogs that may have been exposed to earlier harsh training methods, the clicker does not evoke negative associations with previous training techniques. Again, with fearful dogs, introductions to the clicker should be done carefully.
4) Does not require physical prompting or manipulation of dogs - if done correctly, clicker training does not require physical prodding or manipulation of the animal.
5) Better focus and clearer communication - because of the unique sound and consistency in the signal, I find that clickers provide better focus. Sometimes, dogs learn to tune out human voices and certain words (especially when words are repeated over and over again). Clickers often work well with young puppies and their short attention spans.
6) Better timing - because the clicker's sound is very precise and requires only a press of a button, we can mark or capture desired behaviors more accurately. With certain behaviors (e.g. "watch me"), we need precise timing to mark the point when the dog correctly performs the task at hand (i.e. your dog makes eye contact which can be just a fleeting moment).
7) Works across species- perhaps one of the most amazing aspects of clicker training (or the use of any similar marker) is the fact that it works for species other than dogs. Think about the dolphin at a marine park (the trainer in this case uses a whistle). Karen Pryor, who popularized the use of clickers with dogs, was able to train a hermit crab to ring a bell! Below is a video of me clicker training my cat to perform some of the very same behaviors that I teach in my dog training classes. Who said cats aren't smart! This is the same cat that knows how to open food storage containers from my previous blog.
Are there times when I don't have a client use a clicker? Absolutely. For families with young children, clickers may be too tempting a toy for the children to play with thus confusing the dog. In some cases, for the very fearful dog, even a soft clicker may be too much and some dogs are more comfortable with the human voice. Finally, some people are not comfortable working with a clicker and trying to juggle the leash and treats. In such cases, I substitute the word, "yes" to mark the desired behavior in place of the clicker. Some of my clients have also made clucking sounds with their tongues instead of holding a clicker!
If you would like to learn more about clicker training here are a few of my favorite books:
Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor - the book that promoted not only positive reinforcement dog training but the use of clicker training with dogs.
Reaching the Animal Mind by Karen Pryor - explains the science behind clicker training with entertaining anecdotes and personal stories from the author, Karen Pryor.
Click to Calm by Emma Parsons - one of my favorite books for dealing with the reactive dogs. Has easy to follow instructions and exercises to address reactivity/aggressive behavior.
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat9:56 PM
View the Original article
1) The clicker sounds the same every time - every time we press the clicker, it sounds basically the same. It is a clear and consistent signal to the dog that he/she did something correctly and will be rewarded for it. Our human voices, however, can vary especially if we are happy, excited, nervous, frustrated, tired or impatient.
2) Most animals have only positive associations with clickers - because of the nature of clicker training (i.e. click followed by reward), most animals have positive associations with clickers. There are a few animals that are scared of clickers when initially introduced to them so it is always best to first muffle the sound of the sound of the clicker to make sure your dog is not is not scared of it.
3) Often helpful with rescues - I have found that clickers often work well with rescues. Most rescues have no previous association with clickers so they find the experience unique and interesting. For dogs that may have been exposed to earlier harsh training methods, the clicker does not evoke negative associations with previous training techniques. Again, with fearful dogs, introductions to the clicker should be done carefully.
4) Does not require physical prompting or manipulation of dogs - if done correctly, clicker training does not require physical prodding or manipulation of the animal.
5) Better focus and clearer communication - because of the unique sound and consistency in the signal, I find that clickers provide better focus. Sometimes, dogs learn to tune out human voices and certain words (especially when words are repeated over and over again). Clickers often work well with young puppies and their short attention spans.
6) Better timing - because the clicker's sound is very precise and requires only a press of a button, we can mark or capture desired behaviors more accurately. With certain behaviors (e.g. "watch me"), we need precise timing to mark the point when the dog correctly performs the task at hand (i.e. your dog makes eye contact which can be just a fleeting moment).
7) Works across species- perhaps one of the most amazing aspects of clicker training (or the use of any similar marker) is the fact that it works for species other than dogs. Think about the dolphin at a marine park (the trainer in this case uses a whistle). Karen Pryor, who popularized the use of clickers with dogs, was able to train a hermit crab to ring a bell! Below is a video of me clicker training my cat to perform some of the very same behaviors that I teach in my dog training classes. Who said cats aren't smart! This is the same cat that knows how to open food storage containers from my previous blog.
Are there times when I don't have a client use a clicker? Absolutely. For families with young children, clickers may be too tempting a toy for the children to play with thus confusing the dog. In some cases, for the very fearful dog, even a soft clicker may be too much and some dogs are more comfortable with the human voice. Finally, some people are not comfortable working with a clicker and trying to juggle the leash and treats. In such cases, I substitute the word, "yes" to mark the desired behavior in place of the clicker. Some of my clients have also made clucking sounds with their tongues instead of holding a clicker!
If you would like to learn more about clicker training here are a few of my favorite books:
Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor - the book that promoted not only positive reinforcement dog training but the use of clicker training with dogs.
Reaching the Animal Mind by Karen Pryor - explains the science behind clicker training with entertaining anecdotes and personal stories from the author, Karen Pryor.
Click to Calm by Emma Parsons - one of my favorite books for dealing with the reactive dogs. Has easy to follow instructions and exercises to address reactivity/aggressive behavior.
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat9:56 PM
View the Original article
The Vacuum Vigilante
Most dog trainers have several pet projects going on with their own dogs. My 11 year old shiba inu is what you would call a feisty gal. She is the most fearless dog I have ever met. At 6 months old she was part of the Nisei Week parade in Little Tokyo. While we were waiting our turn on the parade route, we were parked next to the Taiko drums. The Taiko drums went off and the other dogs were understandably frightened. Not Mitsu. She looked around as if she was thinking, “hey where’s the party at?” She has been to loud and frenetic places like Las Vegas strip and fireworks do not phase her.
However, she does have one little quirk that I have now made my “pet” project. It is her battles with the dreaded vacuum machine monster. She will attack the machine and will try to bite it and shake it. The loud noise, the lights, the annoying power cord, all of it sets her off. If the vacuum is in another room she does not pay attention. She is not afraid of the machine, she just does not want it in the living room where she hangs out. So how does one deal with the feisty vacuum machine vigilante?
Management: For years, I simply managed the situation. She went into her crate and she calmly waited for the chore to be over with. While in her crate she just fell asleep and did not bark at the vacuum. Sometimes, management is the simplest and easiest way to deal with non-fearful but mildly annoying behavior. However, as you will see in the video below, it did not change my dog's attitude towards the vacuum.
Redirection and Distraction: this year I decided to employ a different strategy; redirection and distraction. My dog has always loved her interactive dog toys so for the last two weeks she has been getting her Kong, Tug-A-Jug or Kibble Nibble when I vacuum. She has been getting these toys only when I vacuum which is very frequent right now because my dogs are blowing their coats. If you missed my review of interactive dog toys, go to: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html.
These toys not only distract my dog so I can complete my chores but it also has the effect of associating the vacuum with her fun, interactive toys. Here is a video of my dog before the introduction of her toys (about two weeks ago) and during the process of giving her toys when I need to vacuum the floor:
Note: my dog chose to be around the vacuum cleaner. In the case of the Kong, I kept putting it on her bed and in her crate while the vacuum was running but she preferred to work on it in the middle of the floor. Other dogs may prefer to work on these toys in a far corner, in their pen/crate or in a nearby room.
Teach Your Dog an Incompatible Behavior: another strategy is to teach your dog what you want her to do instead. Ideally, it should be a behavior that is incompatible with what she has been doing. Teaching your dog to go to her bed and stay is an example of a behavior that is incompatible with being on the floor and attacking the vacuum. I also started this training with Mitsu. Make sure your dog is solid with these behaviors before attempting it with a vacuum. In Mitsu's case she has a pretty solid command of "bed" and "stay." Here is an example of the beginnings of this type of training:
Dogs who are afraid of the vacuum: in this case, my dog is not afraid of the vacuum. She views it as an unwelcome, noisy intruder. For some dogs, especially with some young puppies, the vacuum can be a frightening contraption. In such cases, introduction to the vacuum cleaner should be gradual. Let the puppy get used to the vacuum machine being in the room while the engine is off. Let her inspect the machine while it is just sitting in the room. You can even put treats leading up to the vacuum and on top of the vacuum while the engine is off. Leave the machine in the same room for several days and put treats around the machine to encourage your dog to come up to it. Simulate the movement of the vacuum by moving it around in the same room with the engine off. You may want to use a crate or play pen so your dog does not get in the way. Let her get used to the noise when it not as intense by vacuuming in another room. When you begin vacuuming in another room, let the puppy work on a Kong or bully stick to distract her. Do this for a few days so your dog gets used to the noise. If your dog is unperturbed by the noise, gradually start working in a room closer to the puppy and repeat the process. When your puppy is ready, work in the same room as the puppy and make sure she has her Kong or chew stick available in her crate/pen.
Next month, we will see how Mitsu is doing with her old nemesis. Who says you can’t teach an old dog something new!Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat1:58 PM
View the Original article
However, she does have one little quirk that I have now made my “pet” project. It is her battles with the dreaded vacuum machine monster. She will attack the machine and will try to bite it and shake it. The loud noise, the lights, the annoying power cord, all of it sets her off. If the vacuum is in another room she does not pay attention. She is not afraid of the machine, she just does not want it in the living room where she hangs out. So how does one deal with the feisty vacuum machine vigilante?
Management: For years, I simply managed the situation. She went into her crate and she calmly waited for the chore to be over with. While in her crate she just fell asleep and did not bark at the vacuum. Sometimes, management is the simplest and easiest way to deal with non-fearful but mildly annoying behavior. However, as you will see in the video below, it did not change my dog's attitude towards the vacuum.
Redirection and Distraction: this year I decided to employ a different strategy; redirection and distraction. My dog has always loved her interactive dog toys so for the last two weeks she has been getting her Kong, Tug-A-Jug or Kibble Nibble when I vacuum. She has been getting these toys only when I vacuum which is very frequent right now because my dogs are blowing their coats. If you missed my review of interactive dog toys, go to: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html.
These toys not only distract my dog so I can complete my chores but it also has the effect of associating the vacuum with her fun, interactive toys. Here is a video of my dog before the introduction of her toys (about two weeks ago) and during the process of giving her toys when I need to vacuum the floor:
Note: my dog chose to be around the vacuum cleaner. In the case of the Kong, I kept putting it on her bed and in her crate while the vacuum was running but she preferred to work on it in the middle of the floor. Other dogs may prefer to work on these toys in a far corner, in their pen/crate or in a nearby room.
Teach Your Dog an Incompatible Behavior: another strategy is to teach your dog what you want her to do instead. Ideally, it should be a behavior that is incompatible with what she has been doing. Teaching your dog to go to her bed and stay is an example of a behavior that is incompatible with being on the floor and attacking the vacuum. I also started this training with Mitsu. Make sure your dog is solid with these behaviors before attempting it with a vacuum. In Mitsu's case she has a pretty solid command of "bed" and "stay." Here is an example of the beginnings of this type of training:
Dogs who are afraid of the vacuum: in this case, my dog is not afraid of the vacuum. She views it as an unwelcome, noisy intruder. For some dogs, especially with some young puppies, the vacuum can be a frightening contraption. In such cases, introduction to the vacuum cleaner should be gradual. Let the puppy get used to the vacuum machine being in the room while the engine is off. Let her inspect the machine while it is just sitting in the room. You can even put treats leading up to the vacuum and on top of the vacuum while the engine is off. Leave the machine in the same room for several days and put treats around the machine to encourage your dog to come up to it. Simulate the movement of the vacuum by moving it around in the same room with the engine off. You may want to use a crate or play pen so your dog does not get in the way. Let her get used to the noise when it not as intense by vacuuming in another room. When you begin vacuuming in another room, let the puppy work on a Kong or bully stick to distract her. Do this for a few days so your dog gets used to the noise. If your dog is unperturbed by the noise, gradually start working in a room closer to the puppy and repeat the process. When your puppy is ready, work in the same room as the puppy and make sure she has her Kong or chew stick available in her crate/pen.
Next month, we will see how Mitsu is doing with her old nemesis. Who says you can’t teach an old dog something new!Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat1:58 PM
View the Original article
A Few New Year's Resolutions
Happy New Year everyone! When it comes to New Year’s Resolutions we tend to focus on ourselves. This year, I decided to put together some dog-related resolutions:
1) Incorporate dog training in my everyday routine – now that my “puppy” is 2 years old, it is very easy to let all that old puppy training fall by the wayside. So this year I will strive to reinforce my dogs’ training by continuing to incorporate them in my everyday routine. A few examples are:
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “wait” behind the door before letting them out
• Asking my dogs to “sit” before I put the leash on them for a walk
• Asking my dog to “sit” before releasing her to “take” the toy for a game of tug of war or fetch.
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “leave it” until I am able to put the food bowl down on the floor before giving them my release cue (“o.k”) to take the food.
• Asking my dogs to “go to their beds” and “stay” while I am eating my meals.
2) Management – having a dog with good house manners is a combination of management and actual training. Often the management portion of this equation is overlooked. Keeping or removing food from the counter before leaving the house will reduce temptations for your dog and will help keep your dog from forming a habit of “counter-surfing.” Dogs will continue to perform behaviors that are successful for them and behaviors that do not reap any rewards gradually extinguish. So, if my dog is “rewarded” by getting a piece of food off that counter (even if relatively infrequent), there is no impetus for her to stop checking out the counter while I am out of the room. If my dog knows that food is not on that counter when I am not home, she is less likely to scavenge while I am out of sight. Management is also good way to keep your pup from destroying your favorite pair of leather shoes. Putting shoes away in your closet and closing the doors to your bedroom will prevent access into non-puppy proofed parts of the house when you are not home. Baby gates are also good management tools until your puppy passes the chewing phase and learns to chew the appropriate toys. If your puppy does not have access to shoes but instead has access to chew toys, you will protect your property. Who knew that having a puppy can lead to a clutter-free house.
3) Give my dog time to think - often we get impatient and we have a tendency to repeat the verbal cue over and over again thinking that it will make our dogs perform the behavior more quickly. If anything, it leads to your dog tuning you out. Instead, once your dog has learned the verbal cue for the behavior you are training, use the word once and give your dog time (10-15 seconds) to think about it. Repeating the cue while your dog is trying to figure out the behavior is the human equivalent of someone standing over your shoulder asking you, “what is 29x37” over and over again while you are trying to solve the equation. If your dog does not complete the task within that time frame, go back to the previous step in training (e.g. using a hand signal or lure with the verbal cue) and practice at that level until your dog becomes more proficient.
4) Exercise – regular exercise stimulates your dog not only physically but mentally. Your neighborhood is a smorgasbord of smells, sights and sounds that are different from what your dog experiences at home. A bored dog can be very destructive. When my dogs are bored, I often find little holes my backyard. Exercise can help channel some of that pent up energy.
5) Play more games with my dogs – playing games with your dog not only stimulates your dog mentally but it helps foster the bond with your dog. Although some dogs can play fetch until the cows come home, other dogs will get bored of this game after awhile (Northern breeds come to mind). This year I plan to introduce more games into my dogs lives beyond fetch and tug of war (which my dog never seems to get tired of). My dogs like to hunt and they love the “find it” games where they have to search for different objects to receive a treat. I also use training as a game and try to teach new tricks or combine different behaviors in a row (chaining behaviors) before the dog receives a reward. Keep training sessions short (5 -10 minute sessions at a time) to maximize on the “fun factor.” Next month I will be posting my review of popular interactive dog toys on the market.
6) Give my dogs some down time – right now I am working on my akita’s adolescent reactivity towards strange dogs. When working with such behaviors, it is tempting to try to train your dog every day for long periods of time and with as many other dogs as possible. I have found that it is beneficial to give my dog some down time from such intensive training because I want my dog to look forward to training rather than view it as a stressful event. Taking a day or two break can give my dog time to recoup and lessen the likelihood of burnout (for me too). Dogs need alone time too.
7) Appreciate every moment with my dogs – dog years are too short as far as we are concerned. That is why we should appreciate the time we have with our pets while they are with us. I have two senior dogs right now and I appreciate the confidence and tolerance that many older dogs have. The comfort and security that our senior pets provide is reflection of the strong bond formed after years of working together. Without my older dogs, I am sure my Akita puppy would have been a handful, but my older dogs have kept some of her rowdy teenage behavior in check. There is something to be said about the wisdom and experience of an older dog.
8) Keep expectations realistic – there is a temptation to expect too much from our pets. We have a 6 month old puppy and we expect them not to chew on our favorite chair. We expect a kitten not to climb up our drapes. We have a 10 year old dog and we expect them to adapt to new and strange situations like a younger dog. We expect an independent breed like a husky or akita to want stick to your side at all times or want to perform repetitive tasks. We adopted a dog from the shelter a few weeks ago and we expect them not to be fearful or anxious. This New Year, let’s keep our expectations realistic based on our pet’s age, history, temperament and personality. Realistic expectations reduce frustration and forge a better bond with your pet!
Happy New Year and Happy Training!
Pawsitive Feedback Training
www.pawsitivefeedback.comPosted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat8:40 AM
View the Original article
1) Incorporate dog training in my everyday routine – now that my “puppy” is 2 years old, it is very easy to let all that old puppy training fall by the wayside. So this year I will strive to reinforce my dogs’ training by continuing to incorporate them in my everyday routine. A few examples are:
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “wait” behind the door before letting them out
• Asking my dogs to “sit” before I put the leash on them for a walk
• Asking my dog to “sit” before releasing her to “take” the toy for a game of tug of war or fetch.
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “leave it” until I am able to put the food bowl down on the floor before giving them my release cue (“o.k”) to take the food.
• Asking my dogs to “go to their beds” and “stay” while I am eating my meals.
2) Management – having a dog with good house manners is a combination of management and actual training. Often the management portion of this equation is overlooked. Keeping or removing food from the counter before leaving the house will reduce temptations for your dog and will help keep your dog from forming a habit of “counter-surfing.” Dogs will continue to perform behaviors that are successful for them and behaviors that do not reap any rewards gradually extinguish. So, if my dog is “rewarded” by getting a piece of food off that counter (even if relatively infrequent), there is no impetus for her to stop checking out the counter while I am out of the room. If my dog knows that food is not on that counter when I am not home, she is less likely to scavenge while I am out of sight. Management is also good way to keep your pup from destroying your favorite pair of leather shoes. Putting shoes away in your closet and closing the doors to your bedroom will prevent access into non-puppy proofed parts of the house when you are not home. Baby gates are also good management tools until your puppy passes the chewing phase and learns to chew the appropriate toys. If your puppy does not have access to shoes but instead has access to chew toys, you will protect your property. Who knew that having a puppy can lead to a clutter-free house.
3) Give my dog time to think - often we get impatient and we have a tendency to repeat the verbal cue over and over again thinking that it will make our dogs perform the behavior more quickly. If anything, it leads to your dog tuning you out. Instead, once your dog has learned the verbal cue for the behavior you are training, use the word once and give your dog time (10-15 seconds) to think about it. Repeating the cue while your dog is trying to figure out the behavior is the human equivalent of someone standing over your shoulder asking you, “what is 29x37” over and over again while you are trying to solve the equation. If your dog does not complete the task within that time frame, go back to the previous step in training (e.g. using a hand signal or lure with the verbal cue) and practice at that level until your dog becomes more proficient.
4) Exercise – regular exercise stimulates your dog not only physically but mentally. Your neighborhood is a smorgasbord of smells, sights and sounds that are different from what your dog experiences at home. A bored dog can be very destructive. When my dogs are bored, I often find little holes my backyard. Exercise can help channel some of that pent up energy.
5) Play more games with my dogs – playing games with your dog not only stimulates your dog mentally but it helps foster the bond with your dog. Although some dogs can play fetch until the cows come home, other dogs will get bored of this game after awhile (Northern breeds come to mind). This year I plan to introduce more games into my dogs lives beyond fetch and tug of war (which my dog never seems to get tired of). My dogs like to hunt and they love the “find it” games where they have to search for different objects to receive a treat. I also use training as a game and try to teach new tricks or combine different behaviors in a row (chaining behaviors) before the dog receives a reward. Keep training sessions short (5 -10 minute sessions at a time) to maximize on the “fun factor.” Next month I will be posting my review of popular interactive dog toys on the market.
6) Give my dogs some down time – right now I am working on my akita’s adolescent reactivity towards strange dogs. When working with such behaviors, it is tempting to try to train your dog every day for long periods of time and with as many other dogs as possible. I have found that it is beneficial to give my dog some down time from such intensive training because I want my dog to look forward to training rather than view it as a stressful event. Taking a day or two break can give my dog time to recoup and lessen the likelihood of burnout (for me too). Dogs need alone time too.
7) Appreciate every moment with my dogs – dog years are too short as far as we are concerned. That is why we should appreciate the time we have with our pets while they are with us. I have two senior dogs right now and I appreciate the confidence and tolerance that many older dogs have. The comfort and security that our senior pets provide is reflection of the strong bond formed after years of working together. Without my older dogs, I am sure my Akita puppy would have been a handful, but my older dogs have kept some of her rowdy teenage behavior in check. There is something to be said about the wisdom and experience of an older dog.
8) Keep expectations realistic – there is a temptation to expect too much from our pets. We have a 6 month old puppy and we expect them not to chew on our favorite chair. We expect a kitten not to climb up our drapes. We have a 10 year old dog and we expect them to adapt to new and strange situations like a younger dog. We expect an independent breed like a husky or akita to want stick to your side at all times or want to perform repetitive tasks. We adopted a dog from the shelter a few weeks ago and we expect them not to be fearful or anxious. This New Year, let’s keep our expectations realistic based on our pet’s age, history, temperament and personality. Realistic expectations reduce frustration and forge a better bond with your pet!
Happy New Year and Happy Training!
Pawsitive Feedback Training
www.pawsitivefeedback.comPosted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat8:40 AM
View the Original article
Interactive Dog (and Cat) Toys
Boredom and lack of excercise can lead to destructive behavior. In addition to exercise, mental stimulation can help alleviate boredom. There are a number of toys on the market that can keep your dog occupied and enrich your dog's environment. This month, my dogs (and cat) have assisted me in test driving many of the more popular toys on the market.
Interactive toys can be grouped into two categories: toys that involve self-play (dog interacts with toy) and toys that involve your participation. Below is a summary of the various toys on the market, my review of the pros and cons of each and my dogs' response to these toys. The "Mitsu-Meter" (in honor of my crazy Shiba Inu, Mitsu) is a separate rating based primarily on my dogs' reaction to the toy (0 to 5 paws). A higher paw rating is a reflection of the level of interest and enthusiasm my dogs showed towards the toy. If my dogs abandoned the toy before the treats ran out or showed too much frustration, the toy received a lower rating.
With toys, it is always good to have a few different types of toys handy for variety. Rotate the toys through a 2-3 day cycle so they do not get bored too easily.
Self-play
Some toys can be used when the dog is left alone or for times when you need to keep your dog occupied (e.g. when you have guests over, you are busy at the computer, when you are having a meal). These toys must be fairly indestructible and have no small parts.
Kongs - Kongs are great toys that can be stuffed with your dog's kibble, treats, and other foods. Your dog will spend a lot of time trying to get the contents out of the Kong. Think of it like a doggie pacifier. For heavy chewers the Extreme Kong (black version)would be a better choice. The Kong website has instructions on how to use it with recipes and I also posted a blog about the many uses of Kongs which you can read about here.
View the Original article
Interactive toys can be grouped into two categories: toys that involve self-play (dog interacts with toy) and toys that involve your participation. Below is a summary of the various toys on the market, my review of the pros and cons of each and my dogs' response to these toys. The "Mitsu-Meter" (in honor of my crazy Shiba Inu, Mitsu) is a separate rating based primarily on my dogs' reaction to the toy (0 to 5 paws). A higher paw rating is a reflection of the level of interest and enthusiasm my dogs showed towards the toy. If my dogs abandoned the toy before the treats ran out or showed too much frustration, the toy received a lower rating.
With toys, it is always good to have a few different types of toys handy for variety. Rotate the toys through a 2-3 day cycle so they do not get bored too easily.
Self-play
Some toys can be used when the dog is left alone or for times when you need to keep your dog occupied (e.g. when you have guests over, you are busy at the computer, when you are having a meal). These toys must be fairly indestructible and have no small parts.
Kongs - Kongs are great toys that can be stuffed with your dog's kibble, treats, and other foods. Your dog will spend a lot of time trying to get the contents out of the Kong. Think of it like a doggie pacifier. For heavy chewers the Extreme Kong (black version)would be a better choice. The Kong website has instructions on how to use it with recipes and I also posted a blog about the many uses of Kongs which you can read about here.
View the Original article
What is a Leash Reactive Dog?
Recently, I started a workshop for leash-reactive dogs and their owners. I have found that many people who have reactive dogs enroll in group classes hoping that the group setting will help their dog grow accustomed to being around other dogs. Mildly reactive dogs usually get used to a class situation after a few weeks but other dogs may find the setting too overwhelming. In other cases, a dog might be reactive to a particular type of dog or in a specific setting that the group class cannot mimic. Usually people who enroll these dogs in class have recently adopted the dog and are often are more interested in helping the dog get used to other dogs than general obedience. So I started the workshops to specifically address this behavior because in the basic group classes the focus is on general obedience and the level of training required for the reactive dog requires a different focus and skill set.
A frequent question I receive is “what is a leash reactive dog”? The term “reactive” is somewhat vague. Although it is a term that is commonly used in the dog training world, the term can have various connotations to your average dog owner. Reactivity in dogs can manifest itself as lunging, jumping, rearing up like a stallion, snarling, growling, barking and overexcitement. A leash-reactive dog is one that is especially reactive while on a leash. Interestingly, many leash-reactive dogs are perfectly fine off-leash and many of them play well in dog parks.
So why are dogs more reactive on leash than off-leash? There are several possibilities. One reason is that the leash prevents dogs from behaving the way they would normally behave when they see another dog. For dogs that are overly excited, the leash prevents them from greeting the dog and they react in frustration which devolves into barking and lunging. For fearful dogs, they may perceive that the “flight” part of the “flight or fight response” is not an option because they are stuck on a leash and feel “trapped.” In some cases, the dog reacts in response to tension on the leash because the owner is pulling back on it in anticipation of the encounter. When the dog feels the tension in connection with seeing other canines, the dog may perceive that there is a threat and become more aggressive. Sometimes if the owner jerks on the leash, it is a simple association between seeing a strange dog and pain (from the tightening of the collar).
This behavior can manifest itself at adolescence. A dog that has been socialized as a puppy can still become reactive. Some adolescent dogs can become feisty and test out certain behaviors. My female akita who is now 2 years old started manifesting this behavior at about a year. She had been through puppy kindergarten, basic obedience, intermediate and advanced obedience classes so she had a lot of socialization and been to the dog park etc. Now, she did witness an attack of my 13 year old akita by a neighbor’s loose shepherd while we were on a walk (the neighbor left the front door open and the dog ran from his property) which probably did not help. After the incident, she whined and became vigilant every time we walked by that house. My old akita was unharmed. The two male dogs rolled around before the owner called his dog away and my old guy dusted himself off and trotted away like nothing happened. My old male is a rescue that I adopted as a previously intact two-year old adult and I have a feeling that he was used to minor scuffles with his male and female Akita housemates. But, my female who was still a puppy at the time was left with quite an impression and she started becoming reactive soon after this incident. Granted, there is a breed predisposition for dog aggression in Akitas and she was a feisty adolescent so it is possible that she would have become somewhat leash reactive despite this incident and reactivity can be common in the guarding breeds. For example, in obedience classes, my akita can sit touching (butt-to-butt) with a classmate, but if she sees a strange dog approaching the outskirts of class, she will start barking in alarm. Small dogs can be reactive too so this behavior is not limited to the large dogs. In fact, several dogs in my workshops have been small or toy breeds.
Regardless of the reason why a dog has become leash reactive, it is important to not overreact to the situation. Yelling, scolding and tightening or jerking on the leash can exacerbate the problem and give your dog the false impression that there is something to be worried about. In the case of my Akita, I started a program where I taught her that good things happen when she sees another dog while on a leash. I have also taught her that there are options to standing her ground and lunging. In fact, whenever we pass by the house where the shepherd lives and we see him by the gate, she gets a treat for looking at the dog and then looking at me. Although this seems like a simple routine, it took weeks of training to get her to this point where she could focus on me and there were intermediate steps involved. Eventually, I put this behavior on cue by uttering the phrase, “there’s your friend,” and clicking and treating when she looks at the dog and then looks at me. She then gets another reward for following me past the gate without reacting (this is the options part of the equation where she learns that retreating is an alternative). I use my happy “let’s go” voice and act like nothing is bothering me. With Akitas, retreat is not something they naturally do so it took a lot of training to teach her to ignore other dogs. Luckily, the shepherd has no problem with my female and just sits by the gate staring at our strange little exercise. Slowly, she has gotten less reactive to dogs while on walks and defaults into turning her back on other dogs and sitting facing me whenever another dog is around.
My dog has doggie playmates and has good social skills once she gets to know a dog but my current goals are for her to be calm around unfamiliar dogs and not lunge at them while on a leash. It is not important for me at this time for her to be buddy-buddy with every dog she meets. My goals are realistic for her current stage in this training process because she is a large, strong, rowdy, adolescent that needs to learn a little self-control while on walks and not react on impulse. Sometimes it is more important to have lots and lots of minor successes (not reacting and ignoring a dog) compared to having a few stupendous interactions (doggie play) followed by a bad interaction. It is important to be aware of what your dog can handle and set your dog up for success.
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A frequent question I receive is “what is a leash reactive dog”? The term “reactive” is somewhat vague. Although it is a term that is commonly used in the dog training world, the term can have various connotations to your average dog owner. Reactivity in dogs can manifest itself as lunging, jumping, rearing up like a stallion, snarling, growling, barking and overexcitement. A leash-reactive dog is one that is especially reactive while on a leash. Interestingly, many leash-reactive dogs are perfectly fine off-leash and many of them play well in dog parks.
So why are dogs more reactive on leash than off-leash? There are several possibilities. One reason is that the leash prevents dogs from behaving the way they would normally behave when they see another dog. For dogs that are overly excited, the leash prevents them from greeting the dog and they react in frustration which devolves into barking and lunging. For fearful dogs, they may perceive that the “flight” part of the “flight or fight response” is not an option because they are stuck on a leash and feel “trapped.” In some cases, the dog reacts in response to tension on the leash because the owner is pulling back on it in anticipation of the encounter. When the dog feels the tension in connection with seeing other canines, the dog may perceive that there is a threat and become more aggressive. Sometimes if the owner jerks on the leash, it is a simple association between seeing a strange dog and pain (from the tightening of the collar).
This behavior can manifest itself at adolescence. A dog that has been socialized as a puppy can still become reactive. Some adolescent dogs can become feisty and test out certain behaviors. My female akita who is now 2 years old started manifesting this behavior at about a year. She had been through puppy kindergarten, basic obedience, intermediate and advanced obedience classes so she had a lot of socialization and been to the dog park etc. Now, she did witness an attack of my 13 year old akita by a neighbor’s loose shepherd while we were on a walk (the neighbor left the front door open and the dog ran from his property) which probably did not help. After the incident, she whined and became vigilant every time we walked by that house. My old akita was unharmed. The two male dogs rolled around before the owner called his dog away and my old guy dusted himself off and trotted away like nothing happened. My old male is a rescue that I adopted as a previously intact two-year old adult and I have a feeling that he was used to minor scuffles with his male and female Akita housemates. But, my female who was still a puppy at the time was left with quite an impression and she started becoming reactive soon after this incident. Granted, there is a breed predisposition for dog aggression in Akitas and she was a feisty adolescent so it is possible that she would have become somewhat leash reactive despite this incident and reactivity can be common in the guarding breeds. For example, in obedience classes, my akita can sit touching (butt-to-butt) with a classmate, but if she sees a strange dog approaching the outskirts of class, she will start barking in alarm. Small dogs can be reactive too so this behavior is not limited to the large dogs. In fact, several dogs in my workshops have been small or toy breeds.
Regardless of the reason why a dog has become leash reactive, it is important to not overreact to the situation. Yelling, scolding and tightening or jerking on the leash can exacerbate the problem and give your dog the false impression that there is something to be worried about. In the case of my Akita, I started a program where I taught her that good things happen when she sees another dog while on a leash. I have also taught her that there are options to standing her ground and lunging. In fact, whenever we pass by the house where the shepherd lives and we see him by the gate, she gets a treat for looking at the dog and then looking at me. Although this seems like a simple routine, it took weeks of training to get her to this point where she could focus on me and there were intermediate steps involved. Eventually, I put this behavior on cue by uttering the phrase, “there’s your friend,” and clicking and treating when she looks at the dog and then looks at me. She then gets another reward for following me past the gate without reacting (this is the options part of the equation where she learns that retreating is an alternative). I use my happy “let’s go” voice and act like nothing is bothering me. With Akitas, retreat is not something they naturally do so it took a lot of training to teach her to ignore other dogs. Luckily, the shepherd has no problem with my female and just sits by the gate staring at our strange little exercise. Slowly, she has gotten less reactive to dogs while on walks and defaults into turning her back on other dogs and sitting facing me whenever another dog is around.
My dog has doggie playmates and has good social skills once she gets to know a dog but my current goals are for her to be calm around unfamiliar dogs and not lunge at them while on a leash. It is not important for me at this time for her to be buddy-buddy with every dog she meets. My goals are realistic for her current stage in this training process because she is a large, strong, rowdy, adolescent that needs to learn a little self-control while on walks and not react on impulse. Sometimes it is more important to have lots and lots of minor successes (not reacting and ignoring a dog) compared to having a few stupendous interactions (doggie play) followed by a bad interaction. It is important to be aware of what your dog can handle and set your dog up for success.
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Sometimes you and your dog need a little one-on-one time
Often when we want to do something with our dogs we default to taking our dogs to the dog park. We get to sit on a park bench and watch our dogs run around and play. Well, that’s fun for the dog isn’t it? While the dog park increases your dog’s interaction with other dogs, it does not necessarily forge the bond between you and your dog. Often when we are training our dogs we need to develop a better bond and ways of communicating with our dogs. This is especially true when your dog heads into young adulthood/adolescence and increasing your dog’s reliability to commands becomes a bigger priority. Now that Spring has arrived, here are some other ways to have fun with your dog and build on that training from puppy class or basic obedience:
Hiking: taking long, vigorous walks with your dog can be very fulfilling. Hiking trails are filled with sights and sounds that city dogs do not often experience and therefore stimulate your dog’s senses. Hiking trails are often graded so you and your dog get a good workout. Most city and state hiking trails require your dog to be on leash or risk a hefty fine. For safety, stay on marked trails. Often wilderness trails are off-limits to dogs because of the negative impact on wildlife. Bring water for you and your dog so both of you remain well hydrated because on a summer day your dog can easily overheat. It is also advisabe to make sure your dog is protected with flea, tick and, if appropriate for your geographic area, heartworm medications/remedies. The following books are great resources for hiking with your dog:
Hiking with your dog by Gary Hoffman
Favorite Dog Hikes in and around Los Angeles by Wynne Benti
Best Hikes with Dogs: Southern California by Allen Riedel
Training activities: often I take my dog to a public park and just train her. She enjoys training and I sometimes use a long line (a 20-30 foot canvas leash) to work on my dog’s “stay” and recalls. When working with a long line, make sure that the end is held so that your dog cannot run away. Also make sure you work in an area where a lot of dogs will not interfere with your training. As a reward for completing these exercises you can play with toys, go for a run or let your dog then play with other dogs. Agility, flyball and nosework classes are other activities that help reinforce the bond between you and your dog.
Playing games: there are many games you can play with your dog. Play is a great way to reinforce the relationship with your dog and make training more fun. Hide and seek reinforces your dog’s recall and dogs love trying to “find” their owners. The more excited you are when your dog finds you, the more rewarding your dog will find coming when called. Scent seeking games are also fun for your dog. Hiding objects like stuffed Kongs and asking your dog to “find it” also stimulate your dog's olfactory senses. Tug of War or fetch can also be used in lieu of a food reward for a dog with good bite inhibition and who knows what “drop it” means. I use tug of war as a reward instead of treats to reinforce my dog’s training. For example, you can ask your dog to do a down-stay and when you release your dog you can play a fun game of tug of war or fetch.
There are interactive dog toys you can use to play with your dogs. See http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html for some ideas.
There also many books with fun ideas of games to play with your dog. For example:
Play with your Dog by Pat Miller:
So with all this nice weather we have been having, think of some creative ways for you to interact with your dog and reinforce all that great training your dog knows.Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat10:08 AM
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Hiking: taking long, vigorous walks with your dog can be very fulfilling. Hiking trails are filled with sights and sounds that city dogs do not often experience and therefore stimulate your dog’s senses. Hiking trails are often graded so you and your dog get a good workout. Most city and state hiking trails require your dog to be on leash or risk a hefty fine. For safety, stay on marked trails. Often wilderness trails are off-limits to dogs because of the negative impact on wildlife. Bring water for you and your dog so both of you remain well hydrated because on a summer day your dog can easily overheat. It is also advisabe to make sure your dog is protected with flea, tick and, if appropriate for your geographic area, heartworm medications/remedies. The following books are great resources for hiking with your dog:
Hiking with your dog by Gary Hoffman
Favorite Dog Hikes in and around Los Angeles by Wynne Benti
Best Hikes with Dogs: Southern California by Allen Riedel
Training activities: often I take my dog to a public park and just train her. She enjoys training and I sometimes use a long line (a 20-30 foot canvas leash) to work on my dog’s “stay” and recalls. When working with a long line, make sure that the end is held so that your dog cannot run away. Also make sure you work in an area where a lot of dogs will not interfere with your training. As a reward for completing these exercises you can play with toys, go for a run or let your dog then play with other dogs. Agility, flyball and nosework classes are other activities that help reinforce the bond between you and your dog.
Playing games: there are many games you can play with your dog. Play is a great way to reinforce the relationship with your dog and make training more fun. Hide and seek reinforces your dog’s recall and dogs love trying to “find” their owners. The more excited you are when your dog finds you, the more rewarding your dog will find coming when called. Scent seeking games are also fun for your dog. Hiding objects like stuffed Kongs and asking your dog to “find it” also stimulate your dog's olfactory senses. Tug of War or fetch can also be used in lieu of a food reward for a dog with good bite inhibition and who knows what “drop it” means. I use tug of war as a reward instead of treats to reinforce my dog’s training. For example, you can ask your dog to do a down-stay and when you release your dog you can play a fun game of tug of war or fetch.
There are interactive dog toys you can use to play with your dogs. See http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html for some ideas.
There also many books with fun ideas of games to play with your dog. For example:
Play with your Dog by Pat Miller:
So with all this nice weather we have been having, think of some creative ways for you to interact with your dog and reinforce all that great training your dog knows.Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat10:08 AM
View the Original article
When dog training goes out the window . . .
This is where the "management" part of dog training comes into play. When your dog has a "little helper" opening food bins, those food bins need to be "cat-proofed" and off the floor:
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat3:01 PM
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Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat3:01 PM
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The Vacuum Vigilante
Most dog trainers have several pet projects going on with their own dogs. My 11 year old shiba inu is what you would call a feisty gal. She is the most fearless dog I have ever met. At 6 months old she was part of the Nisei Week parade in Little Tokyo. While we were waiting our turn on the parade route, we were parked next to the Taiko drums. The Taiko drums went off and the other dogs were understandably frightened. Not Mitsu. She looked around as if she was thinking, “hey where’s the party at?” She has been to loud and frenetic places like Las Vegas strip and fireworks do not phase her.
However, she does have one little quirk that I have now made my “pet” project. It is her battles with the dreaded vacuum machine monster. She will attack the machine and will try to bite it and shake it. The loud noise, the lights, the annoying power cord, all of it sets her off. If the vacuum is in another room she does not pay attention. She is not afraid of the machine, she just does not want it in the living room where she hangs out. So how does one deal with the feisty vacuum machine vigilante?
Management: For years, I simply managed the situation. She went into her crate and she calmly waited for the chore to be over with. While in her crate she just fell asleep and did not bark at the vacuum. Sometimes, management is the simplest and easiest way to deal with non-fearful but mildly annoying behavior. However, as you will see in the video below, it did not change my dog's attitude towards the vacuum.
Redirection and Distraction: this year I decided to employ a different strategy; redirection and distraction. My dog has always loved her interactive dog toys so for the last two weeks she has been getting her Kong, Tug-A-Jug or Kibble Nibble when I vacuum. She has been getting these toys only when I vacuum which is very frequent right now because my dogs are blowing their coats. If you missed my review of interactive dog toys, go to: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html.
These toys not only distract my dog so I can complete my chores but it also has the effect of associating the vacuum with her fun, interactive toys. Here is a video of my dog before the introduction of her toys (about two weeks ago) and during the process of giving her toys when I need to vacuum the floor:
Note: my dog chose to be around the vacuum cleaner. In the case of the Kong, I kept putting it on her bed and in her crate while the vacuum was running but she preferred to work on it in the middle of the floor. Other dogs may prefer to work on these toys in a far corner, in their pen/crate or in a nearby room.
Teach Your Dog an Incompatible Behavior: another strategy is to teach your dog what you want her to do instead. Ideally, it should be a behavior that is incompatible with what she has been doing. Teaching your dog to go to her bed and stay is an example of a behavior that is incompatible with being on the floor and attacking the vacuum. I also started this training with Mitsu. Make sure your dog is solid with these behaviors before attempting it with a vacuum. In Mitsu's case she has a pretty solid command of "bed" and "stay." Here is an example of the beginnings of this type of training:
Dogs who are afraid of the vacuum: in this case, my dog is not afraid of the vacuum. She views it as an unwelcome, noisy intruder. For some dogs, especially with some young puppies, the vacuum can be a frightening contraption. In such cases, introduction to the vacuum cleaner should be gradual. Let the puppy get used to the vacuum machine being in the room while the engine is off. Let her inspect the machine while it is just sitting in the room. You can even put treats leading up to the vacuum and on top of the vacuum while the engine is off. Leave the machine in the same room for several days and put treats around the machine to encourage your dog to come up to it. Simulate the movement of the vacuum by moving it around in the same room with the engine off. You may want to use a crate or play pen so your dog does not get in the way. Let her get used to the noise when it not as intense by vacuuming in another room. When you begin vacuuming in another room, let the puppy work on a Kong or bully stick to distract her. Do this for a few days so your dog gets used to the noise. If your dog is unperturbed by the noise, gradually start working in a room closer to the puppy and repeat the process. When your puppy is ready, work in the same room as the puppy and make sure she has her Kong or chew stick available in her crate/pen.
Next month, we will see how Mitsu is doing with her old nemesis. Who says you can’t teach an old dog something new!Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat1:58 PM
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However, she does have one little quirk that I have now made my “pet” project. It is her battles with the dreaded vacuum machine monster. She will attack the machine and will try to bite it and shake it. The loud noise, the lights, the annoying power cord, all of it sets her off. If the vacuum is in another room she does not pay attention. She is not afraid of the machine, she just does not want it in the living room where she hangs out. So how does one deal with the feisty vacuum machine vigilante?
Management: For years, I simply managed the situation. She went into her crate and she calmly waited for the chore to be over with. While in her crate she just fell asleep and did not bark at the vacuum. Sometimes, management is the simplest and easiest way to deal with non-fearful but mildly annoying behavior. However, as you will see in the video below, it did not change my dog's attitude towards the vacuum.
Redirection and Distraction: this year I decided to employ a different strategy; redirection and distraction. My dog has always loved her interactive dog toys so for the last two weeks she has been getting her Kong, Tug-A-Jug or Kibble Nibble when I vacuum. She has been getting these toys only when I vacuum which is very frequent right now because my dogs are blowing their coats. If you missed my review of interactive dog toys, go to: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html.
These toys not only distract my dog so I can complete my chores but it also has the effect of associating the vacuum with her fun, interactive toys. Here is a video of my dog before the introduction of her toys (about two weeks ago) and during the process of giving her toys when I need to vacuum the floor:
Note: my dog chose to be around the vacuum cleaner. In the case of the Kong, I kept putting it on her bed and in her crate while the vacuum was running but she preferred to work on it in the middle of the floor. Other dogs may prefer to work on these toys in a far corner, in their pen/crate or in a nearby room.
Teach Your Dog an Incompatible Behavior: another strategy is to teach your dog what you want her to do instead. Ideally, it should be a behavior that is incompatible with what she has been doing. Teaching your dog to go to her bed and stay is an example of a behavior that is incompatible with being on the floor and attacking the vacuum. I also started this training with Mitsu. Make sure your dog is solid with these behaviors before attempting it with a vacuum. In Mitsu's case she has a pretty solid command of "bed" and "stay." Here is an example of the beginnings of this type of training:
Dogs who are afraid of the vacuum: in this case, my dog is not afraid of the vacuum. She views it as an unwelcome, noisy intruder. For some dogs, especially with some young puppies, the vacuum can be a frightening contraption. In such cases, introduction to the vacuum cleaner should be gradual. Let the puppy get used to the vacuum machine being in the room while the engine is off. Let her inspect the machine while it is just sitting in the room. You can even put treats leading up to the vacuum and on top of the vacuum while the engine is off. Leave the machine in the same room for several days and put treats around the machine to encourage your dog to come up to it. Simulate the movement of the vacuum by moving it around in the same room with the engine off. You may want to use a crate or play pen so your dog does not get in the way. Let her get used to the noise when it not as intense by vacuuming in another room. When you begin vacuuming in another room, let the puppy work on a Kong or bully stick to distract her. Do this for a few days so your dog gets used to the noise. If your dog is unperturbed by the noise, gradually start working in a room closer to the puppy and repeat the process. When your puppy is ready, work in the same room as the puppy and make sure she has her Kong or chew stick available in her crate/pen.
Next month, we will see how Mitsu is doing with her old nemesis. Who says you can’t teach an old dog something new!Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat1:58 PM
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Pet Projects - The Vacuum Vigilante Revisited
It has been almost a month since I have been working with my 11-year shiba inu on her vacuum issues.
Last month we used interactive dog toys and training to teach her alternative behaviors to attacking the vacuum cleaner. If you missed this blog, you can follow this link to see how we trained her: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/05/vacuum-vigilante.html
In addition to the training shown in these videos, I also used the clicker to reward her for non-reactive behavior. So after a few weeks, I rewarded her whenever the vacuum was running and she either stayed on her bed without me asking or she simply did not react to the vacuum.
Let's see how she is doing so far:
In the video you can see there is still a little temptation to go for the vacuum, but she is much more relaxed and less reactive. So a little more work will help her become more reliable and consistent in her response to the vacuum.
So, for an 11-year old dog with a life-long history of reactivity towards the vacuum, she has come around quite nicely. Being a clicker-trained dog also helps with behavior modification. She is flexible and quick to figure out what behaviors elicit rewards.
http://www.pawsitivefeedback.comPosted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat9:29 PM
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Last month we used interactive dog toys and training to teach her alternative behaviors to attacking the vacuum cleaner. If you missed this blog, you can follow this link to see how we trained her: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/05/vacuum-vigilante.html
In addition to the training shown in these videos, I also used the clicker to reward her for non-reactive behavior. So after a few weeks, I rewarded her whenever the vacuum was running and she either stayed on her bed without me asking or she simply did not react to the vacuum.
Let's see how she is doing so far:
In the video you can see there is still a little temptation to go for the vacuum, but she is much more relaxed and less reactive. So a little more work will help her become more reliable and consistent in her response to the vacuum.
So, for an 11-year old dog with a life-long history of reactivity towards the vacuum, she has come around quite nicely. Being a clicker-trained dog also helps with behavior modification. She is flexible and quick to figure out what behaviors elicit rewards.
http://www.pawsitivefeedback.comPosted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat9:29 PM
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On the benefits of clicker training
In my group classes I give people the option of using a clicker to train their dogs. Personally, I have found this to be a useful and effective training tool for my own dogs. Clickers can have many advantages over other methods of training:
1) The clicker sounds the same every time - every time we press the clicker, it sounds basically the same. It is a clear and consistent signal to the dog that he/she did something correctly and will be rewarded for it. Our human voices, however, can vary especially if we are happy, excited, nervous, frustrated, tired or impatient.
2) Most animals have only positive associations with clickers - because of the nature of clicker training (i.e. click followed by reward), most animals have positive associations with clickers. There are a few animals that are scared of clickers when initially introduced to them so it is always best to first muffle the sound of the sound of the clicker to make sure your dog is not is not scared of it.
3) Often helpful with rescues - I have found that clickers often work well with rescues. Most rescues have no previous association with clickers so they find the experience unique and interesting. For dogs that may have been exposed to earlier harsh training methods, the clicker does not evoke negative associations with previous training techniques. Again, with fearful dogs, introductions to the clicker should be done carefully.
4) Does not require physical prompting or manipulation of dogs - if done correctly, clicker training does not require physical prodding or manipulation of the animal.
5) Better focus and clearer communication - because of the unique sound and consistency in the signal, I find that clickers provide better focus. Sometimes, dogs learn to tune out human voices and certain words (especially when words are repeated over and over again). Clickers often work well with young puppies and their short attention spans.
6) Better timing - because the clicker's sound is very precise and requires only a press of a button, we can mark or capture desired behaviors more accurately. With certain behaviors (e.g. "watch me"), we need precise timing to mark the point when the dog correctly performs the task at hand (i.e. your dog makes eye contact which can be just a fleeting moment).
7) Works across species- perhaps one of the most amazing aspects of clicker training (or the use of any similar marker) is the fact that it works for species other than dogs. Think about the dolphin at a marine park (the trainer in this case uses a whistle). Karen Pryor, who popularized the use of clickers with dogs, was able to train a hermit crab to ring a bell! Below is a video of me clicker training my cat to perform some of the very same behaviors that I teach in my dog training classes. Who said cats aren't smart! This is the same cat that knows how to open food storage containers from my previous blog.
Are there times when I don't have a client use a clicker? Absolutely. For families with young children, clickers may be too tempting a toy for the children to play with thus confusing the dog. In some cases, for the very fearful dog, even a soft clicker may be too much and some dogs are more comfortable with the human voice. Finally, some people are not comfortable working with a clicker and trying to juggle the leash and treats. In such cases, I substitute the word, "yes" to mark the desired behavior in place of the clicker. Some of my clients have also made clucking sounds with their tongues instead of holding a clicker!
If you would like to learn more about clicker training here are a few of my favorite books:
Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor - the book that promoted not only positive reinforcement dog training but the use of clicker training with dogs.
Reaching the Animal Mind by Karen Pryor - explains the science behind clicker training with entertaining anecdotes and personal stories from the author, Karen Pryor.
Click to Calm by Emma Parsons - one of my favorite books for dealing with the reactive dogs. Has easy to follow instructions and exercises to address reactivity/aggressive behavior.
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat9:56 PM
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1) The clicker sounds the same every time - every time we press the clicker, it sounds basically the same. It is a clear and consistent signal to the dog that he/she did something correctly and will be rewarded for it. Our human voices, however, can vary especially if we are happy, excited, nervous, frustrated, tired or impatient.
2) Most animals have only positive associations with clickers - because of the nature of clicker training (i.e. click followed by reward), most animals have positive associations with clickers. There are a few animals that are scared of clickers when initially introduced to them so it is always best to first muffle the sound of the sound of the clicker to make sure your dog is not is not scared of it.
3) Often helpful with rescues - I have found that clickers often work well with rescues. Most rescues have no previous association with clickers so they find the experience unique and interesting. For dogs that may have been exposed to earlier harsh training methods, the clicker does not evoke negative associations with previous training techniques. Again, with fearful dogs, introductions to the clicker should be done carefully.
4) Does not require physical prompting or manipulation of dogs - if done correctly, clicker training does not require physical prodding or manipulation of the animal.
5) Better focus and clearer communication - because of the unique sound and consistency in the signal, I find that clickers provide better focus. Sometimes, dogs learn to tune out human voices and certain words (especially when words are repeated over and over again). Clickers often work well with young puppies and their short attention spans.
6) Better timing - because the clicker's sound is very precise and requires only a press of a button, we can mark or capture desired behaviors more accurately. With certain behaviors (e.g. "watch me"), we need precise timing to mark the point when the dog correctly performs the task at hand (i.e. your dog makes eye contact which can be just a fleeting moment).
7) Works across species- perhaps one of the most amazing aspects of clicker training (or the use of any similar marker) is the fact that it works for species other than dogs. Think about the dolphin at a marine park (the trainer in this case uses a whistle). Karen Pryor, who popularized the use of clickers with dogs, was able to train a hermit crab to ring a bell! Below is a video of me clicker training my cat to perform some of the very same behaviors that I teach in my dog training classes. Who said cats aren't smart! This is the same cat that knows how to open food storage containers from my previous blog.
Are there times when I don't have a client use a clicker? Absolutely. For families with young children, clickers may be too tempting a toy for the children to play with thus confusing the dog. In some cases, for the very fearful dog, even a soft clicker may be too much and some dogs are more comfortable with the human voice. Finally, some people are not comfortable working with a clicker and trying to juggle the leash and treats. In such cases, I substitute the word, "yes" to mark the desired behavior in place of the clicker. Some of my clients have also made clucking sounds with their tongues instead of holding a clicker!
If you would like to learn more about clicker training here are a few of my favorite books:
Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor - the book that promoted not only positive reinforcement dog training but the use of clicker training with dogs.
Reaching the Animal Mind by Karen Pryor - explains the science behind clicker training with entertaining anecdotes and personal stories from the author, Karen Pryor.
Click to Calm by Emma Parsons - one of my favorite books for dealing with the reactive dogs. Has easy to follow instructions and exercises to address reactivity/aggressive behavior.
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat9:56 PM
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To Touch and Be Touched Part I
In my classes there are two fundamental lessons I like to teach. The first, is teaching your dog to tolerate being touched by humans and grabbed by the collar. The second is teaching a dog to target. For those of you who have taken my classes, this is the verbal cue "touch." In this two part series, I will discuss why each skill is important.
Tolerating touches from humans is an important skill, especially for puppies. It is important for puppies to get used to being handled by humans because there are many situations where they will be touched or examined by strangers. Therefore it is important that they get used to:
• Having their ears, paws and toes touched so that they will be used to it when they go to the vet or groomer.
• Being grabbed by the collar or led by the collar because many people instinctively grab dogs by the collar without first considering whether it is safe to do so.
• Being petted on different parts of the body, having their tails touched and pats on the head because that’s what children tend to do when they meet a dog.
• Having their body examined because you may have to remove a tick or remove a foxtail from their fur/paw.
For these reasons and many others, it is important to desensitize a dog to these sensations. It is important to do it in baby steps and not rush things so that your dog considers this a pleasant experience. Below is a video showing some steps on getting your dog used to being handled in general:
Some dogs dislike or are startled when they are grabbed by the collar. My Shiba Inu, Mitsu, like many Shiba Inus is sensitive and prickly about having certain body parts handled. So it is important to teach them that being grabbed by the collar is a good thing. Here is a video showing some ways to get your dog used to having a collar/harness taken on and off and being grabbed and led by the collar:
Next time we will cover the versatility of targeting. In the meantime, happy training!
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat1:21 PM
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Tolerating touches from humans is an important skill, especially for puppies. It is important for puppies to get used to being handled by humans because there are many situations where they will be touched or examined by strangers. Therefore it is important that they get used to:
• Having their ears, paws and toes touched so that they will be used to it when they go to the vet or groomer.
• Being grabbed by the collar or led by the collar because many people instinctively grab dogs by the collar without first considering whether it is safe to do so.
• Being petted on different parts of the body, having their tails touched and pats on the head because that’s what children tend to do when they meet a dog.
• Having their body examined because you may have to remove a tick or remove a foxtail from their fur/paw.
For these reasons and many others, it is important to desensitize a dog to these sensations. It is important to do it in baby steps and not rush things so that your dog considers this a pleasant experience. Below is a video showing some steps on getting your dog used to being handled in general:
Some dogs dislike or are startled when they are grabbed by the collar. My Shiba Inu, Mitsu, like many Shiba Inus is sensitive and prickly about having certain body parts handled. So it is important to teach them that being grabbed by the collar is a good thing. Here is a video showing some ways to get your dog used to having a collar/harness taken on and off and being grabbed and led by the collar:
Next time we will cover the versatility of targeting. In the meantime, happy training!
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat1:21 PM
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The Akita Greeting - Putting Vocalizations on Cue
Akitas can be very vocal with their owners. They like to howl, whoo-hoo and even grunt. I decided to take advantage of this fact and every day when I get up I get a wonderful Akita greeting.
Whenever I hear this I get all warm and fuzzy inside! Now if your dog tries to use the vocalization when you don't ask her/him to, then ignore the times your dog does it on his/her own and only praise/pet/reward when your dog does it on cue. For incessant vocalizers, you may need to put "ssshhh" or "hush" on cue as well.Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat8:04 AM
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Whenever I hear this I get all warm and fuzzy inside! Now if your dog tries to use the vocalization when you don't ask her/him to, then ignore the times your dog does it on his/her own and only praise/pet/reward when your dog does it on cue. For incessant vocalizers, you may need to put "ssshhh" or "hush" on cue as well.Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat8:04 AM
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To Touch or be Touched Part 2
One of the fundamental exercises I teach in class is targeting. Targeting refers to teaching your dog to touch a “target.” It can be an open hand, your fingers or a target stick. It is a simple behavior that has a wide variety of applications and is very versatile. Once you teach your dog to target your hand, it is easy to move on to touching other objects. I like to use the word “touch” as my verbal cue. Teaching your dog to touch a person’s open hand can help with:
1) Overcoming hand shyness and building confidence to approach strangers
2) Teaching dogs to walk by your side by touching your palm when it is next to your body.
3) Teaching dogs to approach strange objects
4) Teaching dogs to open and shut doors and other objects
5) Teaching dogs to touch or ring a bell to go potty.
6) Teaching dogs to follow your hand to go up ladders, through hoops and other agility props.
7) To help redirect your dog’s attention from something else (barking dog, scary person, etc)
8) Using it as a form of recall (come to you). Many dogs are more responsive to “touch” then the word “come.”
Here is a video explaining how to teach your dog to target and a series of clips showing how the “touch” command can be applied to different circumstances:
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat10:13 AM
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1) Overcoming hand shyness and building confidence to approach strangers
2) Teaching dogs to walk by your side by touching your palm when it is next to your body.
3) Teaching dogs to approach strange objects
4) Teaching dogs to open and shut doors and other objects
5) Teaching dogs to touch or ring a bell to go potty.
6) Teaching dogs to follow your hand to go up ladders, through hoops and other agility props.
7) To help redirect your dog’s attention from something else (barking dog, scary person, etc)
8) Using it as a form of recall (come to you). Many dogs are more responsive to “touch” then the word “come.”
Here is a video explaining how to teach your dog to target and a series of clips showing how the “touch” command can be applied to different circumstances:
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat10:13 AM
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Holiday Training Tips
Holidays are full of excitement for our pets: houseguests, turkey, ham, gifts under the Christmas tree and other temptations. Here are a few tips to keep your pet safe and happy during the holidays.
1) Christmas Trees and Candles – Christmas trees are full of pretty shiny things and electric cords. However, some of these shiny things can be usafe for your pet. Avoid using tinsel and glass ornaments which can be torn off the tree, broken or, worse yet, eaten. If you have a puppy, use your management strategies such as pet gates, crates or exercise pens to prevent your puppy from getting into mischief when unattended. Make sure electric cords are tucked out of the way or otherwise inaccessible. Candles are another hazard, make sure they are out of reach of your pet (especially cats).
2) Holiday Treats – please remember that chocolates can be harmful to dogs so make sure that holiday chocolate is out of reach and in a safe place. Even the artificial sweetener, xylitol, has been found to be harmful to dogs.
3) Holiday Plants – plants are a popular gift or decoration during the holidays. For example, poinsettia plants are an irritant and cause vomiting so make sure holiday plants are out of your dog’s reach. If you are unsure if a plant is toxic, please visit the ASPCA poison control center at: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/
4) Guests – not everyone’s dog is a social butterfly. If your dog is shy or disturbed by having so many strangers around, make sure your dog has a safe room where he/she can rest and get some respite from all the excitement. Using management strategies like baby gates can also prevent your dog from running out the door if a guest accidentally forgets to shut the door. Training your dog to go to his/her bed or place is also handy if you want your dog to hang out in a particular spot when people are eating or hanging out.
5) New Year’s Eve – like 4th of July, New Year’s Eve can also involve fireworks (or in some areas people firing off guns). Please keep your pet inside to avoid mishaps. If your pet is afraid of loud noises, please see my 4th of July blog for tips for the noise phobic dog: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/06/4th-of-july-tips-for-fireworks-fearing.html
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1) Christmas Trees and Candles – Christmas trees are full of pretty shiny things and electric cords. However, some of these shiny things can be usafe for your pet. Avoid using tinsel and glass ornaments which can be torn off the tree, broken or, worse yet, eaten. If you have a puppy, use your management strategies such as pet gates, crates or exercise pens to prevent your puppy from getting into mischief when unattended. Make sure electric cords are tucked out of the way or otherwise inaccessible. Candles are another hazard, make sure they are out of reach of your pet (especially cats).
2) Holiday Treats – please remember that chocolates can be harmful to dogs so make sure that holiday chocolate is out of reach and in a safe place. Even the artificial sweetener, xylitol, has been found to be harmful to dogs.
3) Holiday Plants – plants are a popular gift or decoration during the holidays. For example, poinsettia plants are an irritant and cause vomiting so make sure holiday plants are out of your dog’s reach. If you are unsure if a plant is toxic, please visit the ASPCA poison control center at: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/
4) Guests – not everyone’s dog is a social butterfly. If your dog is shy or disturbed by having so many strangers around, make sure your dog has a safe room where he/she can rest and get some respite from all the excitement. Using management strategies like baby gates can also prevent your dog from running out the door if a guest accidentally forgets to shut the door. Training your dog to go to his/her bed or place is also handy if you want your dog to hang out in a particular spot when people are eating or hanging out.
5) New Year’s Eve – like 4th of July, New Year’s Eve can also involve fireworks (or in some areas people firing off guns). Please keep your pet inside to avoid mishaps. If your pet is afraid of loud noises, please see my 4th of July blog for tips for the noise phobic dog: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/06/4th-of-july-tips-for-fireworks-fearing.html
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Free Music Downloads to Help Calm Your Dog
The company Through a Dog's Ear is offering free music downloads this week. One new download each day. This music is designed to help calm and relax your dogs. With the hectic holiday season, not a bad idea! http://www.throughadogsear.com/7_days_2010.htmPosted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat8:49 AM
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New Year's Eve Fireworks and other loud noises
In many cities, New Year's eve is celebrated with setting off fireworks (and sometimes even guns). For the safety of your pet, keep your pet indoors on New Year's Eve.
If your pet is afraid of fireworks and other loud noises, here is my earlier blog on how help your dog through the "noisier" holidays: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/06/4th-of-july-tips-for-fireworks-fearing.html.
Wishing everyone a Happy New Year!!!Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat5:06 PM
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If your pet is afraid of fireworks and other loud noises, here is my earlier blog on how help your dog through the "noisier" holidays: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/06/4th-of-july-tips-for-fireworks-fearing.html.
Wishing everyone a Happy New Year!!!Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat5:06 PM
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January is Train Your Dog Month
Happy New Year! . In 2010, the APDT began the National Train Your Dog Month to promote the importance and benefits of Dog Training so that our dogs can be happy and healthy companions. According to the APDT “too many dogs are turned into animal shelters each year for behavior and training issues that could be easily solved with proper socialization and positive, gentle, science-based methods of training.” Addressing behavioral issues early on and being proactive can help prevent these behaviors from turning into serious problems. In honor of Train Your Dog Month here are some dog training tips and resources:
1) Puppy Socialization: for those of you who have or are getting a puppy, socialization is one of the most important things you can do to give your puppy a head start. Socialization should start early. Even if your puppy does not have all his/her shots, you can have people come visit your home. Once your veterinarian clears your puppy for walks around the neighborhood, you can get your puppy used to the sights and sounds of a city for example. Brief car trips (to minimize motion sickness) where the puppy can stay in the car and watch people walk by is also helpful. You don't want your puppy's early car trips to be just vet visits as this can set up a negative association. So short, fun excursions are important for early socialization. Go slow, try not to bombard your puppy with too much at once. We want these experiences to be positive! Enrolling your dog in a well-managed puppy class that uses positive and gentle methods is one of the best ways for your puppy to get exposure to people and other dogs in a safe, controlled environment. For an explanation of why socialization is so important, here is a position paper written by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior: AVSAB Puppy Socialization Paper
In addition, here are a few of my favorite puppy books:
2) Rescues and Older Adoptees – many people choose to adopt older rescues. The issues rescues face are different from puppies. While rescues have outgrown many of their puppy behaviors such as play biting and destructive chewing, they may not be house trained and may have fear or anxiety issues from being in a shelter, abandonment or other stressful experiences. It is important to be patient and work through these issues at your dog’s own pace. Respect your dog’s comfort zone and work at the speed your dog can handle. Pushing your dog too far too fast can trigger fear issues and set your training backwards a few steps. If your dog is ready for group classes, then that is a good start. If your dog is very fearful or reactive, then private training may be a better first step. A great book that deals with the unique issues that rescue dogs face is Pat Miller’s “Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life.”
3) Maintain Realistic Expectations About Your Dog – besides respecting your dog’s comfort zone it is also important to be realistic about your dog’s abilities and personality. Some dogs may never be the social butterfly you want them to be and are in reality a homebody that prefers human companionship. Shy, older dogs may not enjoy dog parks and in the case of some middle-aged or senior dogs, large, group classes may be too stressful. However, that does not mean you can’t find a fun activity the two of you can do together, train in other settings or find dog friends that your dog can have one-on-one play sessions with. My Shiba Inu is not that social with other dogs now that she is an adult. Once she reached maturity, she stopped playing with dogs at the dog park and would spend the entire time sitting with strangers at the park. It was at this point, I decided that she was no longer getting that much out of being at the dog park and instead I took her on excursions in the city or hanging out in cafes which she seemed to enjoy more. Respecting your dog's physical limitations is another factor to consider. My big, clunky 90 pound Akita is probably not the best dog for agility training (nor would I want to subject his aging joints to this particular activity). Forcing a square peg in a round hole, is not always the best for the dog and it can lead to unnecessary frustration on the owner’s part. Try to find activities that your dog also enjoys and work at your dog's own pace.
4) Find Fun Activities to Do With Your Dog – Training is a great way to bond with your dog, but it does not have to stop there. There are other ways to spend time with your dog such as hiking, camping or playing games. If your dog is very energetic and athletic, agility or other dog sports like flyball may be a great outlet. Try to figure out what activities your dog really enjoys. Here are some books and websites to give you ideas.
To find out more information on dog sports here are some good sources:
Agility - http://www.akc.org/events/agility/index.cfm
Rally - http://www.akc.org/events/rally/
Tracking - http://www.akc.org/events/tracking/
Flyball- http://www.flyball.org/
5) Incorporate Training into Your Daily Routine – many of the things you learn in group class have practical applications in real life and should not end once the class is over. For example, “stay” or “wait” can apply to boundaries such as the front door or the curb and help teach your dog not to run out in traffic. Having your dog go to their bed or place is helpful when guests come to the home or when the doorbell rings. Incorporating training in your daily routine helps reinforce these behaviors so that your dog will retain these skills throughout his/her life. On walks, I practice “sit,” “wait,” “stops/halt” and recalls (“come”). Having a solid recall is one of the most important things to teach your dog and should be reinforced throughout your dog’s lifetime. If your dog has not had any training go to http://www.apdt.com/ or http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/ to find a trainer or group class in your area.
6) Keep Training Fun - I like training sessions to be short, fast-paced and fun. Since I own Northern breeds (Shiba Inu, Akitas) that tend to bore quickly and easily, I try to keep them engaged by changing things up and keeping it interesting. Overly long training sessions, especially for young puppies and the more independent breeds, can lead to frustration for both you and your dog.
7) Exercise – a great New Year’s resolution is exercising with your dog. This is both beneficial for both and your dog! Exercise relieves tension and stress and stimulates your dog’s senses.
So with this New Year why don’t you make dog training one of your New Year’s Resolutions! Wishing everyone a happy and healthy 2011.
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat10:33 AM
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1) Puppy Socialization: for those of you who have or are getting a puppy, socialization is one of the most important things you can do to give your puppy a head start. Socialization should start early. Even if your puppy does not have all his/her shots, you can have people come visit your home. Once your veterinarian clears your puppy for walks around the neighborhood, you can get your puppy used to the sights and sounds of a city for example. Brief car trips (to minimize motion sickness) where the puppy can stay in the car and watch people walk by is also helpful. You don't want your puppy's early car trips to be just vet visits as this can set up a negative association. So short, fun excursions are important for early socialization. Go slow, try not to bombard your puppy with too much at once. We want these experiences to be positive! Enrolling your dog in a well-managed puppy class that uses positive and gentle methods is one of the best ways for your puppy to get exposure to people and other dogs in a safe, controlled environment. For an explanation of why socialization is so important, here is a position paper written by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior: AVSAB Puppy Socialization Paper
In addition, here are a few of my favorite puppy books:
2) Rescues and Older Adoptees – many people choose to adopt older rescues. The issues rescues face are different from puppies. While rescues have outgrown many of their puppy behaviors such as play biting and destructive chewing, they may not be house trained and may have fear or anxiety issues from being in a shelter, abandonment or other stressful experiences. It is important to be patient and work through these issues at your dog’s own pace. Respect your dog’s comfort zone and work at the speed your dog can handle. Pushing your dog too far too fast can trigger fear issues and set your training backwards a few steps. If your dog is ready for group classes, then that is a good start. If your dog is very fearful or reactive, then private training may be a better first step. A great book that deals with the unique issues that rescue dogs face is Pat Miller’s “Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life.”
3) Maintain Realistic Expectations About Your Dog – besides respecting your dog’s comfort zone it is also important to be realistic about your dog’s abilities and personality. Some dogs may never be the social butterfly you want them to be and are in reality a homebody that prefers human companionship. Shy, older dogs may not enjoy dog parks and in the case of some middle-aged or senior dogs, large, group classes may be too stressful. However, that does not mean you can’t find a fun activity the two of you can do together, train in other settings or find dog friends that your dog can have one-on-one play sessions with. My Shiba Inu is not that social with other dogs now that she is an adult. Once she reached maturity, she stopped playing with dogs at the dog park and would spend the entire time sitting with strangers at the park. It was at this point, I decided that she was no longer getting that much out of being at the dog park and instead I took her on excursions in the city or hanging out in cafes which she seemed to enjoy more. Respecting your dog's physical limitations is another factor to consider. My big, clunky 90 pound Akita is probably not the best dog for agility training (nor would I want to subject his aging joints to this particular activity). Forcing a square peg in a round hole, is not always the best for the dog and it can lead to unnecessary frustration on the owner’s part. Try to find activities that your dog also enjoys and work at your dog's own pace.
4) Find Fun Activities to Do With Your Dog – Training is a great way to bond with your dog, but it does not have to stop there. There are other ways to spend time with your dog such as hiking, camping or playing games. If your dog is very energetic and athletic, agility or other dog sports like flyball may be a great outlet. Try to figure out what activities your dog really enjoys. Here are some books and websites to give you ideas.
To find out more information on dog sports here are some good sources:
Agility - http://www.akc.org/events/agility/index.cfm
Rally - http://www.akc.org/events/rally/
Tracking - http://www.akc.org/events/tracking/
Flyball- http://www.flyball.org/
5) Incorporate Training into Your Daily Routine – many of the things you learn in group class have practical applications in real life and should not end once the class is over. For example, “stay” or “wait” can apply to boundaries such as the front door or the curb and help teach your dog not to run out in traffic. Having your dog go to their bed or place is helpful when guests come to the home or when the doorbell rings. Incorporating training in your daily routine helps reinforce these behaviors so that your dog will retain these skills throughout his/her life. On walks, I practice “sit,” “wait,” “stops/halt” and recalls (“come”). Having a solid recall is one of the most important things to teach your dog and should be reinforced throughout your dog’s lifetime. If your dog has not had any training go to http://www.apdt.com/ or http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/ to find a trainer or group class in your area.
6) Keep Training Fun - I like training sessions to be short, fast-paced and fun. Since I own Northern breeds (Shiba Inu, Akitas) that tend to bore quickly and easily, I try to keep them engaged by changing things up and keeping it interesting. Overly long training sessions, especially for young puppies and the more independent breeds, can lead to frustration for both you and your dog.
7) Exercise – a great New Year’s resolution is exercising with your dog. This is both beneficial for both and your dog! Exercise relieves tension and stress and stimulates your dog’s senses.
So with this New Year why don’t you make dog training one of your New Year’s Resolutions! Wishing everyone a happy and healthy 2011.
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat10:33 AM
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Train Your Dog Month - Finding a Dog Trainer
Finding a dog trainer can be a daunting task. These days there are so many dog trainers (especially in large metropolitan areas) and there are several different training styles or philosophies. To help promote Train Your Dog Month, here are some tips and questions to ask:
1) What is the trainer’s training philosophy? Are the methods based on positive reinforcement (e.g. lure-reward training or clicker training) or are they more compulsion-based (using collar corrections or other physical prompts)? Most modern dog trainers use methods primarily based on positive reinforcement and it is the method that the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior advocate as a first-line approach. Avoid trainers who use harsh physical corrections such as leash popping/jerking, pinning the dogs to the ground or hanging the dog by the leash. With young puppies you especially want to make sure that the methods used are gentle and non-coercive because this is a formative period for a puppy. If the person you are interviewing is evasive or overly vague about the techniques they use, move on.
2) What Kind of Equipment Does the Trainer Use? Most positive reinforcement based trainers use plain buckle/clasp collars, harnesses like the Easy Walk™ or Freedom Harness™ or in some cases head harnesses like the Gentle Leader™ or Halti™. They do not use slip chains (choke collars), prong collars or shock collars. For a review of harnesses and collars see my blog at: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2009/06/harnesses-martingales-gentle-leaders-oh.html
3) Is the trainer certified? There are a few certification organizations out there that try to standardize the level of education and experience a trainer should have. One such organization is the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (http://www.ccpdt.org/). The CCPDT, for example, requires that the applicant have completed a certain number of hours as a head dog trainer and successfully pass an exam that tests the trainer's knowledge of learning theory, animal husbandry, ethology, the use of equipment and instruction skills. Many of these organizations also require continuing education to ensure that its members keep up with current trends and developments in dog behavior and training.
4) Experience and Continuing Education - You also want to find out how they received their education and training. Did they apprentice with a dog trainer? How many years have they been training dogs? Does the trainer belong to a professional organization that requires continuing education? A few examples of such organizations are: APDT, IAABC, NADOI and the CCPDT. While it may be impressive that a person has had 30
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1) What is the trainer’s training philosophy? Are the methods based on positive reinforcement (e.g. lure-reward training or clicker training) or are they more compulsion-based (using collar corrections or other physical prompts)? Most modern dog trainers use methods primarily based on positive reinforcement and it is the method that the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior advocate as a first-line approach. Avoid trainers who use harsh physical corrections such as leash popping/jerking, pinning the dogs to the ground or hanging the dog by the leash. With young puppies you especially want to make sure that the methods used are gentle and non-coercive because this is a formative period for a puppy. If the person you are interviewing is evasive or overly vague about the techniques they use, move on.
2) What Kind of Equipment Does the Trainer Use? Most positive reinforcement based trainers use plain buckle/clasp collars, harnesses like the Easy Walk™ or Freedom Harness™ or in some cases head harnesses like the Gentle Leader™ or Halti™. They do not use slip chains (choke collars), prong collars or shock collars. For a review of harnesses and collars see my blog at: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2009/06/harnesses-martingales-gentle-leaders-oh.html
3) Is the trainer certified? There are a few certification organizations out there that try to standardize the level of education and experience a trainer should have. One such organization is the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (http://www.ccpdt.org/). The CCPDT, for example, requires that the applicant have completed a certain number of hours as a head dog trainer and successfully pass an exam that tests the trainer's knowledge of learning theory, animal husbandry, ethology, the use of equipment and instruction skills. Many of these organizations also require continuing education to ensure that its members keep up with current trends and developments in dog behavior and training.
4) Experience and Continuing Education - You also want to find out how they received their education and training. Did they apprentice with a dog trainer? How many years have they been training dogs? Does the trainer belong to a professional organization that requires continuing education? A few examples of such organizations are: APDT, IAABC, NADOI and the CCPDT. While it may be impressive that a person has had 30
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Train Your Dog Month - Group Classes versus Private Training
One of the most frequent questions I get from potential clients is whether group training or private training is better for their new dog. Here are some of the factors that can help determine whether private or group training is the best option for you:
1) Puppies - if your vet has not cleared your puppy for puppy classes, it can be helpful for an initial, in-home private session to help you and your puppy learn some basic skills and start off on the right foot. Private lessons can also address issues that specifically relate to behavior in the home such as housetraining, play biting and chewing. If you are a first-time puppy owner, an in-home meeting with a trainer before your puppy comes home can help get your home set up for the arrival of the puppy. However, by far, one of the most important things you can do is enroll your puppy in a puppy class to help your puppy socialize with new people and other dogs in a setting other than your home.
2) Rescues - if you just adopted an adult dog, and your dog just needs basic training, group classes are probably the most economical means of training your dog. With rescues, you may want to wait a week or two before attending a group class so your dog has a chance to settle into his/her new home. If your dog is confident and settles in quickly, then a group class can help you get your new dog off to a good start. If, after this time, your dog is still very fearful, you may have to delay the start of group class and opt for private training to help build your dog's confidence. If you find that your dog is having specific behavioral problems, then private lessons are often advisable (see below).
3) Behavioral issues - some behavioral problems are better addressed in private sessions. For example, some behaviors, such as separation anxiety, urine marking or housetraining are specific to the home environment and are best dealt with in a private training session. Other behaviors such as aggression towards humans or other animals are also better addressed in private training. Many people believe that your basic group class will help leash aggression/reactivity but this is not necessarily the case. Addressing reactive behavior often involves a different set of exercises and skills that are not covered in a basic obedience class (see my blog about reactive dogs). If you have a reactive dog, your best options are private lessons or enrolling your dog in a class that specifically addresses this type of behavior (often referred to as growly dog classes, reactive dog classes or feisty fido classes).
4) Lifestyle - some people's lifestyles cannot easily accomodate group classes. If you have a variable or busy schedule, private training may be a better way go but realize that you will still need to set aside time between sessions to train your dog and you will need to spend the time to train your dog in settings outside your home that are more distracting. Some people also have physical limitations that make attending a group class more difficult and in such cases private lessons may be a better option.
5) Your dog just needs the basics - if your dog does not have any behavioral issues and you just want to teach your dog to come when called, walking nicely on a leash and other basic skills, group classes are the most economical way to go. If you prefer smaller classes with fewer people, make sure you ask how big the classes can get. If you like more individualized attention or feel you could use more coaching on your own dog handling skills, then private lessons may be preferable for you.
Finally, the trainer you interview will be able to advise you as to what is the best option for you based on your particular goals, your dog and the issues you would like to address.
So, if you are ready to start training and bond with your dog, here are a few good places to start searching for a qualified trainer in your area:
The Association for Pet Dog Trainers (http://www.apdt.com/ ) Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (http://www.ccpdt.org/)Truly Dog Friendly Trainers (http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/ )Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat3:35 PM
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1) Puppies - if your vet has not cleared your puppy for puppy classes, it can be helpful for an initial, in-home private session to help you and your puppy learn some basic skills and start off on the right foot. Private lessons can also address issues that specifically relate to behavior in the home such as housetraining, play biting and chewing. If you are a first-time puppy owner, an in-home meeting with a trainer before your puppy comes home can help get your home set up for the arrival of the puppy. However, by far, one of the most important things you can do is enroll your puppy in a puppy class to help your puppy socialize with new people and other dogs in a setting other than your home.
2) Rescues - if you just adopted an adult dog, and your dog just needs basic training, group classes are probably the most economical means of training your dog. With rescues, you may want to wait a week or two before attending a group class so your dog has a chance to settle into his/her new home. If your dog is confident and settles in quickly, then a group class can help you get your new dog off to a good start. If, after this time, your dog is still very fearful, you may have to delay the start of group class and opt for private training to help build your dog's confidence. If you find that your dog is having specific behavioral problems, then private lessons are often advisable (see below).
3) Behavioral issues - some behavioral problems are better addressed in private sessions. For example, some behaviors, such as separation anxiety, urine marking or housetraining are specific to the home environment and are best dealt with in a private training session. Other behaviors such as aggression towards humans or other animals are also better addressed in private training. Many people believe that your basic group class will help leash aggression/reactivity but this is not necessarily the case. Addressing reactive behavior often involves a different set of exercises and skills that are not covered in a basic obedience class (see my blog about reactive dogs). If you have a reactive dog, your best options are private lessons or enrolling your dog in a class that specifically addresses this type of behavior (often referred to as growly dog classes, reactive dog classes or feisty fido classes).
4) Lifestyle - some people's lifestyles cannot easily accomodate group classes. If you have a variable or busy schedule, private training may be a better way go but realize that you will still need to set aside time between sessions to train your dog and you will need to spend the time to train your dog in settings outside your home that are more distracting. Some people also have physical limitations that make attending a group class more difficult and in such cases private lessons may be a better option.
5) Your dog just needs the basics - if your dog does not have any behavioral issues and you just want to teach your dog to come when called, walking nicely on a leash and other basic skills, group classes are the most economical way to go. If you prefer smaller classes with fewer people, make sure you ask how big the classes can get. If you like more individualized attention or feel you could use more coaching on your own dog handling skills, then private lessons may be preferable for you.
Finally, the trainer you interview will be able to advise you as to what is the best option for you based on your particular goals, your dog and the issues you would like to address.
So, if you are ready to start training and bond with your dog, here are a few good places to start searching for a qualified trainer in your area:
The Association for Pet Dog Trainers (http://www.apdt.com/ ) Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (http://www.ccpdt.org/)Truly Dog Friendly Trainers (http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/ )Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat3:35 PM
View the Original article
A Tale of Two Canines: Leash Aggression and the Power of Pavlov.
Last year I related the story of my young Akita, Kiku, who I was working on to curb her tendency to lunge and bark at other dogs while on a leash and discussed the source of leash aggression/reactivity. Often during our walks we see other people working on the same issue because it is such a common behavior among canines. While the behavior is relatively common, how people address this behavior can be quite different.
On our walks I often run into other owners who have leash aggressive dogs who opt to use more forceful techniques. There is one owner I used to run into fairly regularly who had a choke chain on her dog and she would yell and scream at the dog while yanking on the choke chain. It was a very uncomfortable experience running into these two because you could hear her screaming all the way down the block and the force she would exert on the choke chain would pull the dog of his front feet. She would also violently yank on the choke chain even when her dog looked in the direction of my dog but did not lunge or bark. I see other owners doing this as well and have even witnessed people hitting their dogs. So, the end result of these aversive techniques is that the dog is effectively punished for just glancing at another dog. Whenever, I see this, I think to myself, what message is the owner sending the dog? See dog, jerk on collar, pain. The dog is associating the presence of other dogs with physical punishment. This also illustrates the problem of physical punishment; incorrect application and timing. In this case, the owner was punishing the dog when the dog is actually not doing anything wrong per se leaving the dog confused and walking on eggshells.
I like to call Kiku "Ms. Control Freak." She likes to know what is going on around her and can be a little intense and vigilant. Trying to make her sit and ignore the dogs around her is just a little too much for her to bear and it makes her more anxious and feel out of control. She has gone through all kinds of group classes from puppy kindergarten up through intermediate/advanced levels of obedience with few outbursts and enjoys being in class. But it is the non-class setting or unfamiliar areas where she is the most reactive. My favorite technique has been associating the presence of other dogs with a food reward. Like the bell in Pavlov’s dogs, when my dog looks at another dog she gets her favorite treat (boiled chicken or string cheese in her case). This technique of pairing something that the dog finds unpleasant with something that the dog likes (in this case a tasty treat) is called “counter-conditioning.” The goal of this technique is to change the emotional response of the dog towards the object that causes the fearful or aggressive behavior (in this case the dog but it could be the vacuum cleaner or any other object). I eventually turned this routine into a game where she gets a click and treat when she first looks at another dog and then looks back at me.1 So unlike the owner who punishes their dog for looking towards another dog (probably because the owner fears or anticipates an outburst), I actually encourage it. For my particular dog, being able to see the other dog rather than ignoring the dog is a more comfortable situation for her and I am pairing the presence of other dogs with something the dog likes.
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On our walks I often run into other owners who have leash aggressive dogs who opt to use more forceful techniques. There is one owner I used to run into fairly regularly who had a choke chain on her dog and she would yell and scream at the dog while yanking on the choke chain. It was a very uncomfortable experience running into these two because you could hear her screaming all the way down the block and the force she would exert on the choke chain would pull the dog of his front feet. She would also violently yank on the choke chain even when her dog looked in the direction of my dog but did not lunge or bark. I see other owners doing this as well and have even witnessed people hitting their dogs. So, the end result of these aversive techniques is that the dog is effectively punished for just glancing at another dog. Whenever, I see this, I think to myself, what message is the owner sending the dog? See dog, jerk on collar, pain. The dog is associating the presence of other dogs with physical punishment. This also illustrates the problem of physical punishment; incorrect application and timing. In this case, the owner was punishing the dog when the dog is actually not doing anything wrong per se leaving the dog confused and walking on eggshells.
I like to call Kiku "Ms. Control Freak." She likes to know what is going on around her and can be a little intense and vigilant. Trying to make her sit and ignore the dogs around her is just a little too much for her to bear and it makes her more anxious and feel out of control. She has gone through all kinds of group classes from puppy kindergarten up through intermediate/advanced levels of obedience with few outbursts and enjoys being in class. But it is the non-class setting or unfamiliar areas where she is the most reactive. My favorite technique has been associating the presence of other dogs with a food reward. Like the bell in Pavlov’s dogs, when my dog looks at another dog she gets her favorite treat (boiled chicken or string cheese in her case). This technique of pairing something that the dog finds unpleasant with something that the dog likes (in this case a tasty treat) is called “counter-conditioning.” The goal of this technique is to change the emotional response of the dog towards the object that causes the fearful or aggressive behavior (in this case the dog but it could be the vacuum cleaner or any other object). I eventually turned this routine into a game where she gets a click and treat when she first looks at another dog and then looks back at me.1 So unlike the owner who punishes their dog for looking towards another dog (probably because the owner fears or anticipates an outburst), I actually encourage it. For my particular dog, being able to see the other dog rather than ignoring the dog is a more comfortable situation for her and I am pairing the presence of other dogs with something the dog likes.
View the Original article
A Tale of Two Canines: Leash Aggression and the Power of Pavlov.
Last year I related the story of my young Akita, Kiku, who I was working on to curb her tendency to lunge and bark at other dogs while on a leash and discussed the source of leash aggression/reactivity. Often during our walks we see other people working on the same issue because it is such a common behavior among canines. While the behavior is relatively common, how people address this behavior can be quite different.
On our walks I often run into other owners who have leash aggressive dogs who opt to use more forceful techniques. There is one owner I used to run into fairly regularly who had a choke chain on her dog and she would yell and scream at the dog while yanking on the choke chain. It was a very uncomfortable experience running into these two because you could hear her screaming all the way down the block and the force she would exert on the choke chain would pull the dog of his front feet. She would also violently yank on the choke chain even when her dog looked in the direction of my dog but did not lunge or bark. I see other owners doing this as well and have even witnessed people hitting their dogs. So, the end result of these aversive techniques is that the dog is effectively punished for just glancing at another dog. Whenever, I see this, I think to myself, what message is the owner sending the dog? See dog, jerk on collar, pain. The dog is associating the presence of other dogs with physical punishment. This also illustrates the problem of physical punishment; incorrect application and timing. In this case, the owner was punishing the dog when the dog is actually not doing anything wrong per se leaving the dog confused and walking on eggshells.
I like to call Kiku "Ms. Control Freak." She likes to know what is going on around her and can be a little intense and vigilant. Trying to make her sit and ignore the dogs around her is just a little too much for her to bear and it makes her more anxious and feel out of control. She has gone through all kinds of group classes from puppy kindergarten up through intermediate/advanced levels of obedience with few outbursts and enjoys being in class. But it is the non-class setting or unfamiliar areas where she is the most reactive. My favorite technique has been associating the presence of other dogs with a food reward. Like the bell in Pavlov’s dogs, when my dog looks at another dog she gets her favorite treat (boiled chicken or string cheese in her case). This technique of pairing something that the dog finds unpleasant with something that the dog likes (in this case a tasty treat) is called “counter-conditioning.” The goal of this technique is to change the emotional response of the dog towards the object that causes the fearful or aggressive behavior (in this case the dog but it could be the vacuum cleaner or any other object). I eventually turned this routine into a game where she gets a click and treat when she first looks at another dog and then looks back at me.1 So unlike the owner who punishes their dog for looking towards another dog (probably because the owner fears or anticipates an outburst), I actually encourage it. For my particular dog, being able to see the other dog rather than ignoring the dog is a more comfortable situation for her and I am pairing the presence of other dogs with something the dog likes.
View the Original article
On our walks I often run into other owners who have leash aggressive dogs who opt to use more forceful techniques. There is one owner I used to run into fairly regularly who had a choke chain on her dog and she would yell and scream at the dog while yanking on the choke chain. It was a very uncomfortable experience running into these two because you could hear her screaming all the way down the block and the force she would exert on the choke chain would pull the dog of his front feet. She would also violently yank on the choke chain even when her dog looked in the direction of my dog but did not lunge or bark. I see other owners doing this as well and have even witnessed people hitting their dogs. So, the end result of these aversive techniques is that the dog is effectively punished for just glancing at another dog. Whenever, I see this, I think to myself, what message is the owner sending the dog? See dog, jerk on collar, pain. The dog is associating the presence of other dogs with physical punishment. This also illustrates the problem of physical punishment; incorrect application and timing. In this case, the owner was punishing the dog when the dog is actually not doing anything wrong per se leaving the dog confused and walking on eggshells.
I like to call Kiku "Ms. Control Freak." She likes to know what is going on around her and can be a little intense and vigilant. Trying to make her sit and ignore the dogs around her is just a little too much for her to bear and it makes her more anxious and feel out of control. She has gone through all kinds of group classes from puppy kindergarten up through intermediate/advanced levels of obedience with few outbursts and enjoys being in class. But it is the non-class setting or unfamiliar areas where she is the most reactive. My favorite technique has been associating the presence of other dogs with a food reward. Like the bell in Pavlov’s dogs, when my dog looks at another dog she gets her favorite treat (boiled chicken or string cheese in her case). This technique of pairing something that the dog finds unpleasant with something that the dog likes (in this case a tasty treat) is called “counter-conditioning.” The goal of this technique is to change the emotional response of the dog towards the object that causes the fearful or aggressive behavior (in this case the dog but it could be the vacuum cleaner or any other object). I eventually turned this routine into a game where she gets a click and treat when she first looks at another dog and then looks back at me.1 So unlike the owner who punishes their dog for looking towards another dog (probably because the owner fears or anticipates an outburst), I actually encourage it. For my particular dog, being able to see the other dog rather than ignoring the dog is a more comfortable situation for her and I am pairing the presence of other dogs with something the dog likes.
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See Me, Hear Me: Understanding Canine Body Language
My dad has been in the hospital and I have been taking care of his female corgi mix until he gets home. At first, she came into my house like gangbusters trying to push everyone around, claiming everyone’s sleeping places and hoarding all the toys from the toy box. My female Akita loves her and did not take a lot of her aggressive stances very seriously and, instead, constantly invited her to play. My 2 senior dogs, on the other hand, were not thrilled with this rude little intruder and displayed a number of behaviors to try to defuse the situation and reduce the risk of conflict. I was able to capture some of these interactions on film and thought it would be a good opportunity to discuss canine communication.
Many signals that dogs put out are very subtle to the human eye because they are so different from primate body language. Often dogs show us these signals to let us know that they are uncomfortable or stressed. Conflicts arise when we humans fail to recognize these signals or we misinterpret the message our dogs are trying to convey.
Recognizing and understanding canine body language is critical when trying to manage multi-dog households. Perhaps more importantly, understanding the messages your dog is trying convey can help you forge a better relationship with your dog and help you and your dog navigate through situations that make him/her uncomfortable. Here are a few common signals that are important to be on the look out for:
Lip Licking
This is a behavior dogs will often perform when they are under stress or unsure of what is happening around them. What distinguishes this behavior from a dog “licking his chops” is that it is more frequent and more like a tongue flick. It is a behavior that Turid Rugaas terms a "calming signal" (see book reference below). A "calming signal" is a behavior that dogs display to each other to prevent or reduce the risk of conflict. It is a way for a dog to try to defuse a situation and calm the other dog (or person) down or even to calm themselves down.
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Many signals that dogs put out are very subtle to the human eye because they are so different from primate body language. Often dogs show us these signals to let us know that they are uncomfortable or stressed. Conflicts arise when we humans fail to recognize these signals or we misinterpret the message our dogs are trying to convey.
Recognizing and understanding canine body language is critical when trying to manage multi-dog households. Perhaps more importantly, understanding the messages your dog is trying convey can help you forge a better relationship with your dog and help you and your dog navigate through situations that make him/her uncomfortable. Here are a few common signals that are important to be on the look out for:
Lip Licking
This is a behavior dogs will often perform when they are under stress or unsure of what is happening around them. What distinguishes this behavior from a dog “licking his chops” is that it is more frequent and more like a tongue flick. It is a behavior that Turid Rugaas terms a "calming signal" (see book reference below). A "calming signal" is a behavior that dogs display to each other to prevent or reduce the risk of conflict. It is a way for a dog to try to defuse a situation and calm the other dog (or person) down or even to calm themselves down.
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Dog Bite Prevention
This week is Week and here are a few tips to minimize the risk of dog bites:
Learn a dog's stress signals
In my last blog on Canine Body Language I go over some of the common postures and stress signals that dogs exhibit. Here are a few stress signals to be on the look out for: frequent yawning, licking lips, ears pulled back, pacing, panting. If your dog is stressed, do not force them to meet someone they are afraid of. In a similar vein, learn your dog's aggressive stances. This could include stiff body, very still body, ears forward, body leaning forward, hackles raised, tight/closed mouth, hard stare, curled lip, growling and snarling. Here is a video showing some common stress signals:
Respect these signals and remove your dog from the situation that is causing stress by increasing the distance. Don't worry about offending a stranger. Your dog's well-being is more important. If your dog is frequently afraid of strangers, work with a dog trainer or behaviorist to develop a behavior modification program to help your dog feel more at ease around strangers. It is important to choose a professional who focuses on positive reinforcement methods. If you meet someone else's dog exhibiting these signals when you approach them, stop and slowly back off to give the dog more space.
Appropriate Greetings and Interactions
Besides being able to read a dog's body language or stress signals, another factor that can reduce the incidence of dog bites is knowing how to greet a dog in a manner that will put the dog at ease. Here are a few tips:
1) Stop 5-6 feet in front of the dog. This is usually the distance that a dog is comfortable with and is also the length of most leashes if the dog is on a walk.
2) Ask the owner if you can pet the dog. If the owner hesitates or says the dog is not always friendly, move on. If you are the owner and you notice that your dog is fearful or showing stress signals, ask the person to stop moving forward and refrain from reaching towards your dog.
3) Turn your side to the dog - dogs are often more comfortable when your side is facing them rather than facing them head on. By turning your side to the dog, it makes them more comfortable to approach you.
4)Let the dog approach you - rather than going towards the dog and invading their space, let them approach you. If the dog does not want to approach you or shows you the stress signals mentioned above, then leave the dog be and do not try to pet the dog.
5) Pet the side of the body or neck - avoid blind spots like the top of the head. Fearful dogs do not like to be petted on top of the head and do not like people hovering over them. Here is a video showing the steps:
Sadly, small children under 9 years old are one of the most frequent recipients of dog bites. Children move faster than adults and toddlers move in a manner that seems erratic and odd to dogs. This video from Dr. Sophia Lin and illustrated by Lili Chin (the artist who did the doggie drawings on my website), really captures what a small child seems like from a dog's perspective:
This video highlights the importance of supervision and management when young children and dogs are in the same room or area. There is a tendency for young children to want to hug, kiss or grab dogs much like a stuffed animal and this runs the risk of a bite to the face. It is therefore important to teach children how to appropriately greet a dog. Most dogs do not like to be hugged or kissed on the face and make it practice not to do this with your own dog. Be vigilant of stress signals and teach your child the appropriate way to approach and handle a dog
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Learn a dog's stress signals
In my last blog on Canine Body Language I go over some of the common postures and stress signals that dogs exhibit. Here are a few stress signals to be on the look out for: frequent yawning, licking lips, ears pulled back, pacing, panting. If your dog is stressed, do not force them to meet someone they are afraid of. In a similar vein, learn your dog's aggressive stances. This could include stiff body, very still body, ears forward, body leaning forward, hackles raised, tight/closed mouth, hard stare, curled lip, growling and snarling. Here is a video showing some common stress signals:
Respect these signals and remove your dog from the situation that is causing stress by increasing the distance. Don't worry about offending a stranger. Your dog's well-being is more important. If your dog is frequently afraid of strangers, work with a dog trainer or behaviorist to develop a behavior modification program to help your dog feel more at ease around strangers. It is important to choose a professional who focuses on positive reinforcement methods. If you meet someone else's dog exhibiting these signals when you approach them, stop and slowly back off to give the dog more space.
Appropriate Greetings and Interactions
Besides being able to read a dog's body language or stress signals, another factor that can reduce the incidence of dog bites is knowing how to greet a dog in a manner that will put the dog at ease. Here are a few tips:
1) Stop 5-6 feet in front of the dog. This is usually the distance that a dog is comfortable with and is also the length of most leashes if the dog is on a walk.
2) Ask the owner if you can pet the dog. If the owner hesitates or says the dog is not always friendly, move on. If you are the owner and you notice that your dog is fearful or showing stress signals, ask the person to stop moving forward and refrain from reaching towards your dog.
3) Turn your side to the dog - dogs are often more comfortable when your side is facing them rather than facing them head on. By turning your side to the dog, it makes them more comfortable to approach you.
4)Let the dog approach you - rather than going towards the dog and invading their space, let them approach you. If the dog does not want to approach you or shows you the stress signals mentioned above, then leave the dog be and do not try to pet the dog.
5) Pet the side of the body or neck - avoid blind spots like the top of the head. Fearful dogs do not like to be petted on top of the head and do not like people hovering over them. Here is a video showing the steps:
Sadly, small children under 9 years old are one of the most frequent recipients of dog bites. Children move faster than adults and toddlers move in a manner that seems erratic and odd to dogs. This video from Dr. Sophia Lin and illustrated by Lili Chin (the artist who did the doggie drawings on my website), really captures what a small child seems like from a dog's perspective:
This video highlights the importance of supervision and management when young children and dogs are in the same room or area. There is a tendency for young children to want to hug, kiss or grab dogs much like a stuffed animal and this runs the risk of a bite to the face. It is therefore important to teach children how to appropriately greet a dog. Most dogs do not like to be hugged or kissed on the face and make it practice not to do this with your own dog. Be vigilant of stress signals and teach your child the appropriate way to approach and handle a dog
View the Original article
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