One of the fundamental exercises I teach in class is targeting. Targeting refers to teaching your dog to touch a “target.” It can be an open hand, your fingers or a target stick. It is a simple behavior that has a wide variety of applications and is very versatile. Once you teach your dog to target your hand, it is easy to move on to touching other objects. I like to use the word “touch” as my verbal cue. Teaching your dog to touch a person’s open hand can help with:
1) Overcoming hand shyness and building confidence to approach strangers
2) Teaching dogs to walk by your side by touching your palm when it is next to your body.
3) Teaching dogs to approach strange objects
4) Teaching dogs to open and shut doors and other objects
5) Teaching dogs to touch or ring a bell to go potty.
6) Teaching dogs to follow your hand to go up ladders, through hoops and other agility props.
7) To help redirect your dog’s attention from something else (barking dog, scary person, etc)
8) Using it as a form of recall (come to you). Many dogs are more responsive to “touch” then the word “come.”
Here is a video explaining how to teach your dog to target and a series of clips showing how the “touch” command can be applied to different circumstances:
lördag 2 juli 2011
On the benefits of clicker training
In my group classes I give people the option of using a clicker to train their dogs. Personally, I have found this to be a useful and effective training tool for my own dogs. Clickers can have many advantages over other methods of training:
1) The clicker sounds the same every time - every time we press the clicker, it sounds basically the same. It is a clear and consistent signal to the dog that he/she did something correctly and will be rewarded for it. Our human voices, however, can vary especially if we are happy, excited, nervous, frustrated, tired or impatient.
2) Most animals have only positive associations with clickers - because of the nature of clicker training (i.e. click followed by reward), most animals have positive associations with clickers. There are a few animals that are scared of clickers when initially introduced to them so it is always best to first muffle the sound of the sound of the clicker to make sure your dog is not is not scared of it.
3) Often helpful with rescues - I have found that clickers often work well with rescues. Most rescues have no previous association with clickers so they find the experience unique and interesting. For dogs that may have been exposed to earlier harsh training methods, the clicker does not evoke negative associations with previous training techniques. Again, with fearful dogs, introductions to the clicker should be done carefully.
4) Does not require physical prompting or manipulation of dogs - if done correctly, clicker training does not require physical prodding or manipulation of the animal.
5) Better focus and clearer communication - because of the unique sound and consistency in the signal, I find that clickers provide better focus. Sometimes, dogs learn to tune out human voices and certain words (especially when words are repeated over and over again). Clickers often work well with young puppies and their short attention spans.
6) Better timing - because the clicker's sound is very precise and requires only a press of a button, we can mark or capture desired behaviors more accurately. With certain behaviors (e.g. "watch me"), we need precise timing to mark the point when the dog correctly performs the task at hand (i.e. your dog makes eye contact which can be just a fleeting moment).
7) Works across species- perhaps one of the most amazing aspects of clicker training (or the use of any similar marker) is the fact that it works for species other than dogs. Think about the dolphin at a marine park (the trainer in this case uses a whistle). Karen Pryor, who popularized the use of clickers with dogs, was able to train a hermit crab to ring a bell! Below is a video of me clicker training my cat to perform some of the very same behaviors that I teach in my dog training classes. Who said cats aren't smart! This is the same cat that knows how to open food storage containers from my previous blog.
Are there times when I don't have a client use a clicker? Absolutely. For families with young children, clickers may be too tempting a toy for the children to play with thus confusing the dog. In some cases, for the very fearful dog, even a soft clicker may be too much and some dogs are more comfortable with the human voice. Finally, some people are not comfortable working with a clicker and trying to juggle the leash and treats. In such cases, I substitute the word, "yes" to mark the desired behavior in place of the clicker. Some of my clients have also made clucking sounds with their tongues instead of holding a clicker!
If you would like to learn more about clicker training here are a few of my favorite books:
Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor - the book that promoted not only positive reinforcement dog training but the use of clicker training with dogs.
Reaching the Animal Mind by Karen Pryor - explains the science behind clicker training with entertaining anecdotes and personal stories from the author, Karen Pryor.
Click to Calm by Emma Parsons - one of my favorite books for dealing with the reactive dogs. Has easy to follow instructions and exercises to address reactivity/aggressive behavior.
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat9:56 PM
View the Original article
1) The clicker sounds the same every time - every time we press the clicker, it sounds basically the same. It is a clear and consistent signal to the dog that he/she did something correctly and will be rewarded for it. Our human voices, however, can vary especially if we are happy, excited, nervous, frustrated, tired or impatient.
2) Most animals have only positive associations with clickers - because of the nature of clicker training (i.e. click followed by reward), most animals have positive associations with clickers. There are a few animals that are scared of clickers when initially introduced to them so it is always best to first muffle the sound of the sound of the clicker to make sure your dog is not is not scared of it.
3) Often helpful with rescues - I have found that clickers often work well with rescues. Most rescues have no previous association with clickers so they find the experience unique and interesting. For dogs that may have been exposed to earlier harsh training methods, the clicker does not evoke negative associations with previous training techniques. Again, with fearful dogs, introductions to the clicker should be done carefully.
4) Does not require physical prompting or manipulation of dogs - if done correctly, clicker training does not require physical prodding or manipulation of the animal.
5) Better focus and clearer communication - because of the unique sound and consistency in the signal, I find that clickers provide better focus. Sometimes, dogs learn to tune out human voices and certain words (especially when words are repeated over and over again). Clickers often work well with young puppies and their short attention spans.
6) Better timing - because the clicker's sound is very precise and requires only a press of a button, we can mark or capture desired behaviors more accurately. With certain behaviors (e.g. "watch me"), we need precise timing to mark the point when the dog correctly performs the task at hand (i.e. your dog makes eye contact which can be just a fleeting moment).
7) Works across species- perhaps one of the most amazing aspects of clicker training (or the use of any similar marker) is the fact that it works for species other than dogs. Think about the dolphin at a marine park (the trainer in this case uses a whistle). Karen Pryor, who popularized the use of clickers with dogs, was able to train a hermit crab to ring a bell! Below is a video of me clicker training my cat to perform some of the very same behaviors that I teach in my dog training classes. Who said cats aren't smart! This is the same cat that knows how to open food storage containers from my previous blog.
Are there times when I don't have a client use a clicker? Absolutely. For families with young children, clickers may be too tempting a toy for the children to play with thus confusing the dog. In some cases, for the very fearful dog, even a soft clicker may be too much and some dogs are more comfortable with the human voice. Finally, some people are not comfortable working with a clicker and trying to juggle the leash and treats. In such cases, I substitute the word, "yes" to mark the desired behavior in place of the clicker. Some of my clients have also made clucking sounds with their tongues instead of holding a clicker!
If you would like to learn more about clicker training here are a few of my favorite books:
Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor - the book that promoted not only positive reinforcement dog training but the use of clicker training with dogs.
Reaching the Animal Mind by Karen Pryor - explains the science behind clicker training with entertaining anecdotes and personal stories from the author, Karen Pryor.
Click to Calm by Emma Parsons - one of my favorite books for dealing with the reactive dogs. Has easy to follow instructions and exercises to address reactivity/aggressive behavior.
Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat9:56 PM
View the Original article
The Vacuum Vigilante
Most dog trainers have several pet projects going on with their own dogs. My 11 year old shiba inu is what you would call a feisty gal. She is the most fearless dog I have ever met. At 6 months old she was part of the Nisei Week parade in Little Tokyo. While we were waiting our turn on the parade route, we were parked next to the Taiko drums. The Taiko drums went off and the other dogs were understandably frightened. Not Mitsu. She looked around as if she was thinking, “hey where’s the party at?” She has been to loud and frenetic places like Las Vegas strip and fireworks do not phase her.
However, she does have one little quirk that I have now made my “pet” project. It is her battles with the dreaded vacuum machine monster. She will attack the machine and will try to bite it and shake it. The loud noise, the lights, the annoying power cord, all of it sets her off. If the vacuum is in another room she does not pay attention. She is not afraid of the machine, she just does not want it in the living room where she hangs out. So how does one deal with the feisty vacuum machine vigilante?
Management: For years, I simply managed the situation. She went into her crate and she calmly waited for the chore to be over with. While in her crate she just fell asleep and did not bark at the vacuum. Sometimes, management is the simplest and easiest way to deal with non-fearful but mildly annoying behavior. However, as you will see in the video below, it did not change my dog's attitude towards the vacuum.
Redirection and Distraction: this year I decided to employ a different strategy; redirection and distraction. My dog has always loved her interactive dog toys so for the last two weeks she has been getting her Kong, Tug-A-Jug or Kibble Nibble when I vacuum. She has been getting these toys only when I vacuum which is very frequent right now because my dogs are blowing their coats. If you missed my review of interactive dog toys, go to: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html.
These toys not only distract my dog so I can complete my chores but it also has the effect of associating the vacuum with her fun, interactive toys. Here is a video of my dog before the introduction of her toys (about two weeks ago) and during the process of giving her toys when I need to vacuum the floor:
Note: my dog chose to be around the vacuum cleaner. In the case of the Kong, I kept putting it on her bed and in her crate while the vacuum was running but she preferred to work on it in the middle of the floor. Other dogs may prefer to work on these toys in a far corner, in their pen/crate or in a nearby room.
Teach Your Dog an Incompatible Behavior: another strategy is to teach your dog what you want her to do instead. Ideally, it should be a behavior that is incompatible with what she has been doing. Teaching your dog to go to her bed and stay is an example of a behavior that is incompatible with being on the floor and attacking the vacuum. I also started this training with Mitsu. Make sure your dog is solid with these behaviors before attempting it with a vacuum. In Mitsu's case she has a pretty solid command of "bed" and "stay." Here is an example of the beginnings of this type of training:
Dogs who are afraid of the vacuum: in this case, my dog is not afraid of the vacuum. She views it as an unwelcome, noisy intruder. For some dogs, especially with some young puppies, the vacuum can be a frightening contraption. In such cases, introduction to the vacuum cleaner should be gradual. Let the puppy get used to the vacuum machine being in the room while the engine is off. Let her inspect the machine while it is just sitting in the room. You can even put treats leading up to the vacuum and on top of the vacuum while the engine is off. Leave the machine in the same room for several days and put treats around the machine to encourage your dog to come up to it. Simulate the movement of the vacuum by moving it around in the same room with the engine off. You may want to use a crate or play pen so your dog does not get in the way. Let her get used to the noise when it not as intense by vacuuming in another room. When you begin vacuuming in another room, let the puppy work on a Kong or bully stick to distract her. Do this for a few days so your dog gets used to the noise. If your dog is unperturbed by the noise, gradually start working in a room closer to the puppy and repeat the process. When your puppy is ready, work in the same room as the puppy and make sure she has her Kong or chew stick available in her crate/pen.
Next month, we will see how Mitsu is doing with her old nemesis. Who says you can’t teach an old dog something new!Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat1:58 PM
View the Original article
However, she does have one little quirk that I have now made my “pet” project. It is her battles with the dreaded vacuum machine monster. She will attack the machine and will try to bite it and shake it. The loud noise, the lights, the annoying power cord, all of it sets her off. If the vacuum is in another room she does not pay attention. She is not afraid of the machine, she just does not want it in the living room where she hangs out. So how does one deal with the feisty vacuum machine vigilante?
Management: For years, I simply managed the situation. She went into her crate and she calmly waited for the chore to be over with. While in her crate she just fell asleep and did not bark at the vacuum. Sometimes, management is the simplest and easiest way to deal with non-fearful but mildly annoying behavior. However, as you will see in the video below, it did not change my dog's attitude towards the vacuum.
Redirection and Distraction: this year I decided to employ a different strategy; redirection and distraction. My dog has always loved her interactive dog toys so for the last two weeks she has been getting her Kong, Tug-A-Jug or Kibble Nibble when I vacuum. She has been getting these toys only when I vacuum which is very frequent right now because my dogs are blowing their coats. If you missed my review of interactive dog toys, go to: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html.
These toys not only distract my dog so I can complete my chores but it also has the effect of associating the vacuum with her fun, interactive toys. Here is a video of my dog before the introduction of her toys (about two weeks ago) and during the process of giving her toys when I need to vacuum the floor:
Note: my dog chose to be around the vacuum cleaner. In the case of the Kong, I kept putting it on her bed and in her crate while the vacuum was running but she preferred to work on it in the middle of the floor. Other dogs may prefer to work on these toys in a far corner, in their pen/crate or in a nearby room.
Teach Your Dog an Incompatible Behavior: another strategy is to teach your dog what you want her to do instead. Ideally, it should be a behavior that is incompatible with what she has been doing. Teaching your dog to go to her bed and stay is an example of a behavior that is incompatible with being on the floor and attacking the vacuum. I also started this training with Mitsu. Make sure your dog is solid with these behaviors before attempting it with a vacuum. In Mitsu's case she has a pretty solid command of "bed" and "stay." Here is an example of the beginnings of this type of training:
Dogs who are afraid of the vacuum: in this case, my dog is not afraid of the vacuum. She views it as an unwelcome, noisy intruder. For some dogs, especially with some young puppies, the vacuum can be a frightening contraption. In such cases, introduction to the vacuum cleaner should be gradual. Let the puppy get used to the vacuum machine being in the room while the engine is off. Let her inspect the machine while it is just sitting in the room. You can even put treats leading up to the vacuum and on top of the vacuum while the engine is off. Leave the machine in the same room for several days and put treats around the machine to encourage your dog to come up to it. Simulate the movement of the vacuum by moving it around in the same room with the engine off. You may want to use a crate or play pen so your dog does not get in the way. Let her get used to the noise when it not as intense by vacuuming in another room. When you begin vacuuming in another room, let the puppy work on a Kong or bully stick to distract her. Do this for a few days so your dog gets used to the noise. If your dog is unperturbed by the noise, gradually start working in a room closer to the puppy and repeat the process. When your puppy is ready, work in the same room as the puppy and make sure she has her Kong or chew stick available in her crate/pen.
Next month, we will see how Mitsu is doing with her old nemesis. Who says you can’t teach an old dog something new!Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat1:58 PM
View the Original article
A Few New Year's Resolutions
Happy New Year everyone! When it comes to New Year’s Resolutions we tend to focus on ourselves. This year, I decided to put together some dog-related resolutions:
1) Incorporate dog training in my everyday routine – now that my “puppy” is 2 years old, it is very easy to let all that old puppy training fall by the wayside. So this year I will strive to reinforce my dogs’ training by continuing to incorporate them in my everyday routine. A few examples are:
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “wait” behind the door before letting them out
• Asking my dogs to “sit” before I put the leash on them for a walk
• Asking my dog to “sit” before releasing her to “take” the toy for a game of tug of war or fetch.
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “leave it” until I am able to put the food bowl down on the floor before giving them my release cue (“o.k”) to take the food.
• Asking my dogs to “go to their beds” and “stay” while I am eating my meals.
2) Management – having a dog with good house manners is a combination of management and actual training. Often the management portion of this equation is overlooked. Keeping or removing food from the counter before leaving the house will reduce temptations for your dog and will help keep your dog from forming a habit of “counter-surfing.” Dogs will continue to perform behaviors that are successful for them and behaviors that do not reap any rewards gradually extinguish. So, if my dog is “rewarded” by getting a piece of food off that counter (even if relatively infrequent), there is no impetus for her to stop checking out the counter while I am out of the room. If my dog knows that food is not on that counter when I am not home, she is less likely to scavenge while I am out of sight. Management is also good way to keep your pup from destroying your favorite pair of leather shoes. Putting shoes away in your closet and closing the doors to your bedroom will prevent access into non-puppy proofed parts of the house when you are not home. Baby gates are also good management tools until your puppy passes the chewing phase and learns to chew the appropriate toys. If your puppy does not have access to shoes but instead has access to chew toys, you will protect your property. Who knew that having a puppy can lead to a clutter-free house.
3) Give my dog time to think - often we get impatient and we have a tendency to repeat the verbal cue over and over again thinking that it will make our dogs perform the behavior more quickly. If anything, it leads to your dog tuning you out. Instead, once your dog has learned the verbal cue for the behavior you are training, use the word once and give your dog time (10-15 seconds) to think about it. Repeating the cue while your dog is trying to figure out the behavior is the human equivalent of someone standing over your shoulder asking you, “what is 29x37” over and over again while you are trying to solve the equation. If your dog does not complete the task within that time frame, go back to the previous step in training (e.g. using a hand signal or lure with the verbal cue) and practice at that level until your dog becomes more proficient.
4) Exercise – regular exercise stimulates your dog not only physically but mentally. Your neighborhood is a smorgasbord of smells, sights and sounds that are different from what your dog experiences at home. A bored dog can be very destructive. When my dogs are bored, I often find little holes my backyard. Exercise can help channel some of that pent up energy.
5) Play more games with my dogs – playing games with your dog not only stimulates your dog mentally but it helps foster the bond with your dog. Although some dogs can play fetch until the cows come home, other dogs will get bored of this game after awhile (Northern breeds come to mind). This year I plan to introduce more games into my dogs lives beyond fetch and tug of war (which my dog never seems to get tired of). My dogs like to hunt and they love the “find it” games where they have to search for different objects to receive a treat. I also use training as a game and try to teach new tricks or combine different behaviors in a row (chaining behaviors) before the dog receives a reward. Keep training sessions short (5 -10 minute sessions at a time) to maximize on the “fun factor.” Next month I will be posting my review of popular interactive dog toys on the market.
6) Give my dogs some down time – right now I am working on my akita’s adolescent reactivity towards strange dogs. When working with such behaviors, it is tempting to try to train your dog every day for long periods of time and with as many other dogs as possible. I have found that it is beneficial to give my dog some down time from such intensive training because I want my dog to look forward to training rather than view it as a stressful event. Taking a day or two break can give my dog time to recoup and lessen the likelihood of burnout (for me too). Dogs need alone time too.
7) Appreciate every moment with my dogs – dog years are too short as far as we are concerned. That is why we should appreciate the time we have with our pets while they are with us. I have two senior dogs right now and I appreciate the confidence and tolerance that many older dogs have. The comfort and security that our senior pets provide is reflection of the strong bond formed after years of working together. Without my older dogs, I am sure my Akita puppy would have been a handful, but my older dogs have kept some of her rowdy teenage behavior in check. There is something to be said about the wisdom and experience of an older dog.
8) Keep expectations realistic – there is a temptation to expect too much from our pets. We have a 6 month old puppy and we expect them not to chew on our favorite chair. We expect a kitten not to climb up our drapes. We have a 10 year old dog and we expect them to adapt to new and strange situations like a younger dog. We expect an independent breed like a husky or akita to want stick to your side at all times or want to perform repetitive tasks. We adopted a dog from the shelter a few weeks ago and we expect them not to be fearful or anxious. This New Year, let’s keep our expectations realistic based on our pet’s age, history, temperament and personality. Realistic expectations reduce frustration and forge a better bond with your pet!
Happy New Year and Happy Training!
Pawsitive Feedback Training
www.pawsitivefeedback.comPosted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat8:40 AM
View the Original article
1) Incorporate dog training in my everyday routine – now that my “puppy” is 2 years old, it is very easy to let all that old puppy training fall by the wayside. So this year I will strive to reinforce my dogs’ training by continuing to incorporate them in my everyday routine. A few examples are:
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “wait” behind the door before letting them out
• Asking my dogs to “sit” before I put the leash on them for a walk
• Asking my dog to “sit” before releasing her to “take” the toy for a game of tug of war or fetch.
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “leave it” until I am able to put the food bowl down on the floor before giving them my release cue (“o.k”) to take the food.
• Asking my dogs to “go to their beds” and “stay” while I am eating my meals.
2) Management – having a dog with good house manners is a combination of management and actual training. Often the management portion of this equation is overlooked. Keeping or removing food from the counter before leaving the house will reduce temptations for your dog and will help keep your dog from forming a habit of “counter-surfing.” Dogs will continue to perform behaviors that are successful for them and behaviors that do not reap any rewards gradually extinguish. So, if my dog is “rewarded” by getting a piece of food off that counter (even if relatively infrequent), there is no impetus for her to stop checking out the counter while I am out of the room. If my dog knows that food is not on that counter when I am not home, she is less likely to scavenge while I am out of sight. Management is also good way to keep your pup from destroying your favorite pair of leather shoes. Putting shoes away in your closet and closing the doors to your bedroom will prevent access into non-puppy proofed parts of the house when you are not home. Baby gates are also good management tools until your puppy passes the chewing phase and learns to chew the appropriate toys. If your puppy does not have access to shoes but instead has access to chew toys, you will protect your property. Who knew that having a puppy can lead to a clutter-free house.
3) Give my dog time to think - often we get impatient and we have a tendency to repeat the verbal cue over and over again thinking that it will make our dogs perform the behavior more quickly. If anything, it leads to your dog tuning you out. Instead, once your dog has learned the verbal cue for the behavior you are training, use the word once and give your dog time (10-15 seconds) to think about it. Repeating the cue while your dog is trying to figure out the behavior is the human equivalent of someone standing over your shoulder asking you, “what is 29x37” over and over again while you are trying to solve the equation. If your dog does not complete the task within that time frame, go back to the previous step in training (e.g. using a hand signal or lure with the verbal cue) and practice at that level until your dog becomes more proficient.
4) Exercise – regular exercise stimulates your dog not only physically but mentally. Your neighborhood is a smorgasbord of smells, sights and sounds that are different from what your dog experiences at home. A bored dog can be very destructive. When my dogs are bored, I often find little holes my backyard. Exercise can help channel some of that pent up energy.
5) Play more games with my dogs – playing games with your dog not only stimulates your dog mentally but it helps foster the bond with your dog. Although some dogs can play fetch until the cows come home, other dogs will get bored of this game after awhile (Northern breeds come to mind). This year I plan to introduce more games into my dogs lives beyond fetch and tug of war (which my dog never seems to get tired of). My dogs like to hunt and they love the “find it” games where they have to search for different objects to receive a treat. I also use training as a game and try to teach new tricks or combine different behaviors in a row (chaining behaviors) before the dog receives a reward. Keep training sessions short (5 -10 minute sessions at a time) to maximize on the “fun factor.” Next month I will be posting my review of popular interactive dog toys on the market.
6) Give my dogs some down time – right now I am working on my akita’s adolescent reactivity towards strange dogs. When working with such behaviors, it is tempting to try to train your dog every day for long periods of time and with as many other dogs as possible. I have found that it is beneficial to give my dog some down time from such intensive training because I want my dog to look forward to training rather than view it as a stressful event. Taking a day or two break can give my dog time to recoup and lessen the likelihood of burnout (for me too). Dogs need alone time too.
7) Appreciate every moment with my dogs – dog years are too short as far as we are concerned. That is why we should appreciate the time we have with our pets while they are with us. I have two senior dogs right now and I appreciate the confidence and tolerance that many older dogs have. The comfort and security that our senior pets provide is reflection of the strong bond formed after years of working together. Without my older dogs, I am sure my Akita puppy would have been a handful, but my older dogs have kept some of her rowdy teenage behavior in check. There is something to be said about the wisdom and experience of an older dog.
8) Keep expectations realistic – there is a temptation to expect too much from our pets. We have a 6 month old puppy and we expect them not to chew on our favorite chair. We expect a kitten not to climb up our drapes. We have a 10 year old dog and we expect them to adapt to new and strange situations like a younger dog. We expect an independent breed like a husky or akita to want stick to your side at all times or want to perform repetitive tasks. We adopted a dog from the shelter a few weeks ago and we expect them not to be fearful or anxious. This New Year, let’s keep our expectations realistic based on our pet’s age, history, temperament and personality. Realistic expectations reduce frustration and forge a better bond with your pet!
Happy New Year and Happy Training!
Pawsitive Feedback Training
www.pawsitivefeedback.comPosted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat8:40 AM
View the Original article
Interactive Dog (and Cat) Toys
Boredom and lack of excercise can lead to destructive behavior. In addition to exercise, mental stimulation can help alleviate boredom. There are a number of toys on the market that can keep your dog occupied and enrich your dog's environment. This month, my dogs (and cat) have assisted me in test driving many of the more popular toys on the market.
Interactive toys can be grouped into two categories: toys that involve self-play (dog interacts with toy) and toys that involve your participation. Below is a summary of the various toys on the market, my review of the pros and cons of each and my dogs' response to these toys. The "Mitsu-Meter" (in honor of my crazy Shiba Inu, Mitsu) is a separate rating based primarily on my dogs' reaction to the toy (0 to 5 paws). A higher paw rating is a reflection of the level of interest and enthusiasm my dogs showed towards the toy. If my dogs abandoned the toy before the treats ran out or showed too much frustration, the toy received a lower rating.
With toys, it is always good to have a few different types of toys handy for variety. Rotate the toys through a 2-3 day cycle so they do not get bored too easily.
Self-play
Some toys can be used when the dog is left alone or for times when you need to keep your dog occupied (e.g. when you have guests over, you are busy at the computer, when you are having a meal). These toys must be fairly indestructible and have no small parts.
Kongs - Kongs are great toys that can be stuffed with your dog's kibble, treats, and other foods. Your dog will spend a lot of time trying to get the contents out of the Kong. Think of it like a doggie pacifier. For heavy chewers the Extreme Kong (black version)would be a better choice. The Kong website has instructions on how to use it with recipes and I also posted a blog about the many uses of Kongs which you can read about here.
View the Original article
Interactive toys can be grouped into two categories: toys that involve self-play (dog interacts with toy) and toys that involve your participation. Below is a summary of the various toys on the market, my review of the pros and cons of each and my dogs' response to these toys. The "Mitsu-Meter" (in honor of my crazy Shiba Inu, Mitsu) is a separate rating based primarily on my dogs' reaction to the toy (0 to 5 paws). A higher paw rating is a reflection of the level of interest and enthusiasm my dogs showed towards the toy. If my dogs abandoned the toy before the treats ran out or showed too much frustration, the toy received a lower rating.
With toys, it is always good to have a few different types of toys handy for variety. Rotate the toys through a 2-3 day cycle so they do not get bored too easily.
Self-play
Some toys can be used when the dog is left alone or for times when you need to keep your dog occupied (e.g. when you have guests over, you are busy at the computer, when you are having a meal). These toys must be fairly indestructible and have no small parts.
Kongs - Kongs are great toys that can be stuffed with your dog's kibble, treats, and other foods. Your dog will spend a lot of time trying to get the contents out of the Kong. Think of it like a doggie pacifier. For heavy chewers the Extreme Kong (black version)would be a better choice. The Kong website has instructions on how to use it with recipes and I also posted a blog about the many uses of Kongs which you can read about here.
View the Original article
What is a Leash Reactive Dog?
Recently, I started a workshop for leash-reactive dogs and their owners. I have found that many people who have reactive dogs enroll in group classes hoping that the group setting will help their dog grow accustomed to being around other dogs. Mildly reactive dogs usually get used to a class situation after a few weeks but other dogs may find the setting too overwhelming. In other cases, a dog might be reactive to a particular type of dog or in a specific setting that the group class cannot mimic. Usually people who enroll these dogs in class have recently adopted the dog and are often are more interested in helping the dog get used to other dogs than general obedience. So I started the workshops to specifically address this behavior because in the basic group classes the focus is on general obedience and the level of training required for the reactive dog requires a different focus and skill set.
A frequent question I receive is “what is a leash reactive dog”? The term “reactive” is somewhat vague. Although it is a term that is commonly used in the dog training world, the term can have various connotations to your average dog owner. Reactivity in dogs can manifest itself as lunging, jumping, rearing up like a stallion, snarling, growling, barking and overexcitement. A leash-reactive dog is one that is especially reactive while on a leash. Interestingly, many leash-reactive dogs are perfectly fine off-leash and many of them play well in dog parks.
So why are dogs more reactive on leash than off-leash? There are several possibilities. One reason is that the leash prevents dogs from behaving the way they would normally behave when they see another dog. For dogs that are overly excited, the leash prevents them from greeting the dog and they react in frustration which devolves into barking and lunging. For fearful dogs, they may perceive that the “flight” part of the “flight or fight response” is not an option because they are stuck on a leash and feel “trapped.” In some cases, the dog reacts in response to tension on the leash because the owner is pulling back on it in anticipation of the encounter. When the dog feels the tension in connection with seeing other canines, the dog may perceive that there is a threat and become more aggressive. Sometimes if the owner jerks on the leash, it is a simple association between seeing a strange dog and pain (from the tightening of the collar).
This behavior can manifest itself at adolescence. A dog that has been socialized as a puppy can still become reactive. Some adolescent dogs can become feisty and test out certain behaviors. My female akita who is now 2 years old started manifesting this behavior at about a year. She had been through puppy kindergarten, basic obedience, intermediate and advanced obedience classes so she had a lot of socialization and been to the dog park etc. Now, she did witness an attack of my 13 year old akita by a neighbor’s loose shepherd while we were on a walk (the neighbor left the front door open and the dog ran from his property) which probably did not help. After the incident, she whined and became vigilant every time we walked by that house. My old akita was unharmed. The two male dogs rolled around before the owner called his dog away and my old guy dusted himself off and trotted away like nothing happened. My old male is a rescue that I adopted as a previously intact two-year old adult and I have a feeling that he was used to minor scuffles with his male and female Akita housemates. But, my female who was still a puppy at the time was left with quite an impression and she started becoming reactive soon after this incident. Granted, there is a breed predisposition for dog aggression in Akitas and she was a feisty adolescent so it is possible that she would have become somewhat leash reactive despite this incident and reactivity can be common in the guarding breeds. For example, in obedience classes, my akita can sit touching (butt-to-butt) with a classmate, but if she sees a strange dog approaching the outskirts of class, she will start barking in alarm. Small dogs can be reactive too so this behavior is not limited to the large dogs. In fact, several dogs in my workshops have been small or toy breeds.
Regardless of the reason why a dog has become leash reactive, it is important to not overreact to the situation. Yelling, scolding and tightening or jerking on the leash can exacerbate the problem and give your dog the false impression that there is something to be worried about. In the case of my Akita, I started a program where I taught her that good things happen when she sees another dog while on a leash. I have also taught her that there are options to standing her ground and lunging. In fact, whenever we pass by the house where the shepherd lives and we see him by the gate, she gets a treat for looking at the dog and then looking at me. Although this seems like a simple routine, it took weeks of training to get her to this point where she could focus on me and there were intermediate steps involved. Eventually, I put this behavior on cue by uttering the phrase, “there’s your friend,” and clicking and treating when she looks at the dog and then looks at me. She then gets another reward for following me past the gate without reacting (this is the options part of the equation where she learns that retreating is an alternative). I use my happy “let’s go” voice and act like nothing is bothering me. With Akitas, retreat is not something they naturally do so it took a lot of training to teach her to ignore other dogs. Luckily, the shepherd has no problem with my female and just sits by the gate staring at our strange little exercise. Slowly, she has gotten less reactive to dogs while on walks and defaults into turning her back on other dogs and sitting facing me whenever another dog is around.
My dog has doggie playmates and has good social skills once she gets to know a dog but my current goals are for her to be calm around unfamiliar dogs and not lunge at them while on a leash. It is not important for me at this time for her to be buddy-buddy with every dog she meets. My goals are realistic for her current stage in this training process because she is a large, strong, rowdy, adolescent that needs to learn a little self-control while on walks and not react on impulse. Sometimes it is more important to have lots and lots of minor successes (not reacting and ignoring a dog) compared to having a few stupendous interactions (doggie play) followed by a bad interaction. It is important to be aware of what your dog can handle and set your dog up for success.
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A frequent question I receive is “what is a leash reactive dog”? The term “reactive” is somewhat vague. Although it is a term that is commonly used in the dog training world, the term can have various connotations to your average dog owner. Reactivity in dogs can manifest itself as lunging, jumping, rearing up like a stallion, snarling, growling, barking and overexcitement. A leash-reactive dog is one that is especially reactive while on a leash. Interestingly, many leash-reactive dogs are perfectly fine off-leash and many of them play well in dog parks.
So why are dogs more reactive on leash than off-leash? There are several possibilities. One reason is that the leash prevents dogs from behaving the way they would normally behave when they see another dog. For dogs that are overly excited, the leash prevents them from greeting the dog and they react in frustration which devolves into barking and lunging. For fearful dogs, they may perceive that the “flight” part of the “flight or fight response” is not an option because they are stuck on a leash and feel “trapped.” In some cases, the dog reacts in response to tension on the leash because the owner is pulling back on it in anticipation of the encounter. When the dog feels the tension in connection with seeing other canines, the dog may perceive that there is a threat and become more aggressive. Sometimes if the owner jerks on the leash, it is a simple association between seeing a strange dog and pain (from the tightening of the collar).
This behavior can manifest itself at adolescence. A dog that has been socialized as a puppy can still become reactive. Some adolescent dogs can become feisty and test out certain behaviors. My female akita who is now 2 years old started manifesting this behavior at about a year. She had been through puppy kindergarten, basic obedience, intermediate and advanced obedience classes so she had a lot of socialization and been to the dog park etc. Now, she did witness an attack of my 13 year old akita by a neighbor’s loose shepherd while we were on a walk (the neighbor left the front door open and the dog ran from his property) which probably did not help. After the incident, she whined and became vigilant every time we walked by that house. My old akita was unharmed. The two male dogs rolled around before the owner called his dog away and my old guy dusted himself off and trotted away like nothing happened. My old male is a rescue that I adopted as a previously intact two-year old adult and I have a feeling that he was used to minor scuffles with his male and female Akita housemates. But, my female who was still a puppy at the time was left with quite an impression and she started becoming reactive soon after this incident. Granted, there is a breed predisposition for dog aggression in Akitas and she was a feisty adolescent so it is possible that she would have become somewhat leash reactive despite this incident and reactivity can be common in the guarding breeds. For example, in obedience classes, my akita can sit touching (butt-to-butt) with a classmate, but if she sees a strange dog approaching the outskirts of class, she will start barking in alarm. Small dogs can be reactive too so this behavior is not limited to the large dogs. In fact, several dogs in my workshops have been small or toy breeds.
Regardless of the reason why a dog has become leash reactive, it is important to not overreact to the situation. Yelling, scolding and tightening or jerking on the leash can exacerbate the problem and give your dog the false impression that there is something to be worried about. In the case of my Akita, I started a program where I taught her that good things happen when she sees another dog while on a leash. I have also taught her that there are options to standing her ground and lunging. In fact, whenever we pass by the house where the shepherd lives and we see him by the gate, she gets a treat for looking at the dog and then looking at me. Although this seems like a simple routine, it took weeks of training to get her to this point where she could focus on me and there were intermediate steps involved. Eventually, I put this behavior on cue by uttering the phrase, “there’s your friend,” and clicking and treating when she looks at the dog and then looks at me. She then gets another reward for following me past the gate without reacting (this is the options part of the equation where she learns that retreating is an alternative). I use my happy “let’s go” voice and act like nothing is bothering me. With Akitas, retreat is not something they naturally do so it took a lot of training to teach her to ignore other dogs. Luckily, the shepherd has no problem with my female and just sits by the gate staring at our strange little exercise. Slowly, she has gotten less reactive to dogs while on walks and defaults into turning her back on other dogs and sitting facing me whenever another dog is around.
My dog has doggie playmates and has good social skills once she gets to know a dog but my current goals are for her to be calm around unfamiliar dogs and not lunge at them while on a leash. It is not important for me at this time for her to be buddy-buddy with every dog she meets. My goals are realistic for her current stage in this training process because she is a large, strong, rowdy, adolescent that needs to learn a little self-control while on walks and not react on impulse. Sometimes it is more important to have lots and lots of minor successes (not reacting and ignoring a dog) compared to having a few stupendous interactions (doggie play) followed by a bad interaction. It is important to be aware of what your dog can handle and set your dog up for success.
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Sometimes you and your dog need a little one-on-one time
Often when we want to do something with our dogs we default to taking our dogs to the dog park. We get to sit on a park bench and watch our dogs run around and play. Well, that’s fun for the dog isn’t it? While the dog park increases your dog’s interaction with other dogs, it does not necessarily forge the bond between you and your dog. Often when we are training our dogs we need to develop a better bond and ways of communicating with our dogs. This is especially true when your dog heads into young adulthood/adolescence and increasing your dog’s reliability to commands becomes a bigger priority. Now that Spring has arrived, here are some other ways to have fun with your dog and build on that training from puppy class or basic obedience:
Hiking: taking long, vigorous walks with your dog can be very fulfilling. Hiking trails are filled with sights and sounds that city dogs do not often experience and therefore stimulate your dog’s senses. Hiking trails are often graded so you and your dog get a good workout. Most city and state hiking trails require your dog to be on leash or risk a hefty fine. For safety, stay on marked trails. Often wilderness trails are off-limits to dogs because of the negative impact on wildlife. Bring water for you and your dog so both of you remain well hydrated because on a summer day your dog can easily overheat. It is also advisabe to make sure your dog is protected with flea, tick and, if appropriate for your geographic area, heartworm medications/remedies. The following books are great resources for hiking with your dog:
Hiking with your dog by Gary Hoffman
Favorite Dog Hikes in and around Los Angeles by Wynne Benti
Best Hikes with Dogs: Southern California by Allen Riedel
Training activities: often I take my dog to a public park and just train her. She enjoys training and I sometimes use a long line (a 20-30 foot canvas leash) to work on my dog’s “stay” and recalls. When working with a long line, make sure that the end is held so that your dog cannot run away. Also make sure you work in an area where a lot of dogs will not interfere with your training. As a reward for completing these exercises you can play with toys, go for a run or let your dog then play with other dogs. Agility, flyball and nosework classes are other activities that help reinforce the bond between you and your dog.
Playing games: there are many games you can play with your dog. Play is a great way to reinforce the relationship with your dog and make training more fun. Hide and seek reinforces your dog’s recall and dogs love trying to “find” their owners. The more excited you are when your dog finds you, the more rewarding your dog will find coming when called. Scent seeking games are also fun for your dog. Hiding objects like stuffed Kongs and asking your dog to “find it” also stimulate your dog's olfactory senses. Tug of War or fetch can also be used in lieu of a food reward for a dog with good bite inhibition and who knows what “drop it” means. I use tug of war as a reward instead of treats to reinforce my dog’s training. For example, you can ask your dog to do a down-stay and when you release your dog you can play a fun game of tug of war or fetch.
There are interactive dog toys you can use to play with your dogs. See http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html for some ideas.
There also many books with fun ideas of games to play with your dog. For example:
Play with your Dog by Pat Miller:
So with all this nice weather we have been having, think of some creative ways for you to interact with your dog and reinforce all that great training your dog knows.Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat10:08 AM
View the Original article
Hiking: taking long, vigorous walks with your dog can be very fulfilling. Hiking trails are filled with sights and sounds that city dogs do not often experience and therefore stimulate your dog’s senses. Hiking trails are often graded so you and your dog get a good workout. Most city and state hiking trails require your dog to be on leash or risk a hefty fine. For safety, stay on marked trails. Often wilderness trails are off-limits to dogs because of the negative impact on wildlife. Bring water for you and your dog so both of you remain well hydrated because on a summer day your dog can easily overheat. It is also advisabe to make sure your dog is protected with flea, tick and, if appropriate for your geographic area, heartworm medications/remedies. The following books are great resources for hiking with your dog:
Hiking with your dog by Gary Hoffman
Favorite Dog Hikes in and around Los Angeles by Wynne Benti
Best Hikes with Dogs: Southern California by Allen Riedel
Training activities: often I take my dog to a public park and just train her. She enjoys training and I sometimes use a long line (a 20-30 foot canvas leash) to work on my dog’s “stay” and recalls. When working with a long line, make sure that the end is held so that your dog cannot run away. Also make sure you work in an area where a lot of dogs will not interfere with your training. As a reward for completing these exercises you can play with toys, go for a run or let your dog then play with other dogs. Agility, flyball and nosework classes are other activities that help reinforce the bond between you and your dog.
Playing games: there are many games you can play with your dog. Play is a great way to reinforce the relationship with your dog and make training more fun. Hide and seek reinforces your dog’s recall and dogs love trying to “find” their owners. The more excited you are when your dog finds you, the more rewarding your dog will find coming when called. Scent seeking games are also fun for your dog. Hiding objects like stuffed Kongs and asking your dog to “find it” also stimulate your dog's olfactory senses. Tug of War or fetch can also be used in lieu of a food reward for a dog with good bite inhibition and who knows what “drop it” means. I use tug of war as a reward instead of treats to reinforce my dog’s training. For example, you can ask your dog to do a down-stay and when you release your dog you can play a fun game of tug of war or fetch.
There are interactive dog toys you can use to play with your dogs. See http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html for some ideas.
There also many books with fun ideas of games to play with your dog. For example:
Play with your Dog by Pat Miller:
So with all this nice weather we have been having, think of some creative ways for you to interact with your dog and reinforce all that great training your dog knows.Posted byPawsitive Feedback Trainingat10:08 AM
View the Original article
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